INDIAN PRINTED CALICOES

Representative examples of Indian patterning are given inplates 91-94, which are selected from a fine series of original designsfor printed chintzes, now treasured in the Victoria and AlbertMuseum.

In these examples similar details of floral forms are used, butwith different planning of the pattern. Plates 91 and 94 (2) haveconsiderable freedom of arrangement compared with plate 92, whichis planned upon a more formal basis of ogival lines; while plate 93is a well-defined and characteristic leaf, or pine-shape, filled withfloral forms, a feature used so frequently in the patterning of thebrocades and shawls of India (plates 15, 16).

These examples, although of comparatively late work (18thcentury), are doubtless fairly representative of medieval patterningin India.

In the 17th century the Dutch and Portuguese manufacturedcotton prints directly inspired by those of India.

Indian printed calicoes were imported into England in 1627 bythe East India Company ; but printed fabrics had been produced asearly as 1619 in England, for a patent was granted in that year forthe production of stained or printed fabrics, and other patents weregranted in 1634 and 1675. These fabrics were chiefly linen, thoughcotton is mentioned in the patent of 1634; and to protect thisEnglish industry, the printed chintzes of India, Persia, and China,which had been freely imported during the middle of the century,were prohibited to be worn in Great Britain. By an Act of Parlia-ment passed in 1700, it was enacted “that all calicoes of China,Persia, or of the East Indies, that are painted, dyed, printed, orstained there, which are, or shall be, imported into this kingdom,shall not be worn, or otherwise used, in Great Britain.”

During the 18th century many efforts were made in Englandfor the development of the calico-printing industry, but its progresswas retarded by the heavy tax placed upon such fabrics to preventthe inevitable competition with the woollen industry which wouldensue.

In 1702 there was an excise tax of 3d. per square yard on allprinted calicoes; in 1714 the tax was increased to 6d.; in 1720 alaw was passed forbidding the wearing of printed calicoes, this waspartially repealed in 1736, when mixed goods were permitted. In1774 this Act was repealed, but the 3d. tax still remained until1806, when ^d. was added ; but in 1831 the whole tax was removed,and calico printing rapidly increased in production.

In 1689 the manufacture of indiennes was established atNeuch&tel, and the brothers Kocchlin started cloth printing at

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