RETROSPECT

I N a retrospective glance over the history of the weavingindustry, especially in relation to pattern, the strong vitality,and remarkable persistency of certain early distinctive featuresof Eastern design and texture, are clearly seen through manyhistoric periods.

Doubtless the remarkable continuity of traditional craftsman-ship in China, India, and Persia, the early cultivation of silk andcotton by the inhabitants of these countries, and their skill inthe weaving of splendid tissues of varying degrees of delicacy,ornamented by beautiful and significant patterning, necessarilyexercised a controlling influence upon early European fabrics, byreason of the large importation of silk, cotton, and woven fabricsas articles of commerce ; and also by reason of the fitness, beauty,and vitality of Eastern patterning. There is no doubt that theEastern influence was also largely extended by the industrial andcommercial activity of the Saracens, or Arabian craftsmen, andmerchants throughout the Mediterranean littoral.

Possibly some of this continuity has necessarily resulted fromthe practical and universal conditions of the loom, which, as may beseen in the chapter devoted to this subject (page 11), had under-gone various changes and developments which culminated in theJacquard loom of 1804. It must be remembered, however, thatthe development of these appliances for weaving was only tosimplify or expedite the process of weaving, and they did not produceanything more complex or more beautiful in pattern than before.

The silken fabrics of Byzantium of the I oth century (platesii, 14), the Florentine velvets and brocades of the 15th century(plates 2, 38—41), the Indian and Persian brocades and the Chinesesilks of the 17th—18th centuries (plates 15—20, and 26-29), allwoven on the old draw-loom type, may be compared with theFrench Empire patterning (plates 71, 72), produced in 1810—13 onthe Jacquard loom.

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