lace.

23

dictionaries. 4 It was not till fashion caused the passement to bemade with a toothed edge that the expression of “passementden tele ” first appears.

In the acounts of Henry II. of France, and his queen, wehave frequent notices of “ passement jaulne dantelle des deuxcostez,” 5 “ passement de soye incarnat dentelle d’un coste, 6&c. &c., but no mention of the word “ dentelle.” It does, however,occur, in an inventory of an earlier date, that of Marguerite deFrance, sister of Francis I., who, in 1545, paid the sum of “ \'i livrespour soixante aulnes, fine dantelle de Florance pour mettre ades colietz.” 7

After a lapse of twenty years and more, among the articles fur-nished to Mary Stuart in 1507, is “ Une pacque de petite dentelle 8and this is the sole mention of the word in all her accounts.

Fig. 8. Fig. 9.

Petite dantelle. 1598. Petite dantelle. 1593 .

'jvBSgi

We have like entries in the expenses of Henry I V.’s first queen. 9Gradually the “passement den tele ” subsided into the modern“ dentelle.”

It is in a pattern book, published at Montbeliard, in 1598, 10we first find designs for “ dantelles.” It contains twenty patterns,of all sizes, “bien petites, petites (Figs. 8, 9, 10, 11), moyennes,et grosses” (Fig. 7), the term always applied to toothed edges.

8 “ Plus tie delivre' une pacque depetite dentelle qui est estez cousu en-semble pour mettre sur lea coutures desrideaux dea ditz litz nontenant 80 aunes.”Rec. Off. Fdin. This custom of trim-ming the seams of bed-curtains with alace indented, on bptli sides was commonthroughout Europe.

9 1577. “ Pour deux aulnes de passe-ment d’argent a hautto dantelle pourmettre h ung renvers, au pris de soixantesolz l’aulne.

" Pour uneaulno de dentelle pour fairedeux cornettes pour servir a la dietedame, quatre livres.”— Cptes. de la Heinede Navarre. Arch. Nat. K. li. 102.

19 Appendix.

4 Not in those of Rob. Estienne, 1549;Frere do l’Aval, 1549; or Nicot, 1006.Cotgrave has, *• Dentelle, small edging(and indented), bone-lace, or needle-work.” In “ Diet, de 1’Academic,” 1694,we find, “Dentelle, sorte de passementh jour et a mailles tres fines ainsi nommeparceque les .premieres qu’on fit etoientdenteldes.”

3 Comptes de VArgentier du Hoi, 1557.Arch. Nat K. K. 106. “Passement define Boie noire dentelle d’un coste.”“ Passement blane,” “ grise,” also occur.

8 Argenterie de la Heine, 1556. Arch.Nat. K. K. 118.

7 Difpenses de la Mai ton de MadameMarguerite de France , Sueur du Hoi.llib. Nat. MSS. P. Fr. 10,394, fol. 62.