LACE.

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variety of laces, all qualified under the name of “ passement; andin that of the Marechal La Motte, 1027, we find the term appliedto every description of lace.

“ Item, quatre paires de manchettes garnyes de passement tant

de Venise, Gennes, et de Malines.” 12

Another “ terme de passementier ” which has given rise to someconfusion is the word “ guipure.” Strictly speaking, it was used toexpress a thick thread or cord over which was twisted a silk,gold, or silver thread. 13 Originally slips of parchment (cartisane)were used, but this was found to perish from damp, and wasreplaced by a cotton material called “ cauetille.”

Fig. 14. Fig. 15.

Passement au fuseau. Vincio'o, edition 1623. Merletti a piombini. Parasole, 1616.

mmm

MM

When in the seventeenth century passements were made oflinen thread, to imitate the high reliefs of the needle-madepoints, then in so much estimation, a thick cord worked over withthe thread (guipe) was introduced to mark the salient points ofthe pattern. Thus the term of guipure was applied to the threadlaces with guipure reliefs, and the designation has since remained

find, “ Quatre tours de ediaire de thoillobaptiste, ung beau surplus pour le predi-cateur, six autres, cinq corporaulx,’' all“ a grand passement.” Also, “ deux pe-tits corporaulx li petit passement,” and“ trois tours de chnire garnyz de grand

passement ii dentelle.”

Tnv. apres le decie de Mgr. le Mare-<fiui de La Motte. Bib. Nut. MSS. F.Fr. 11.420.

13 “ Guiper. Tordre les fils pendansd’une frange par le moyen de l’instrumentqu’on nomine guipoir, fer crocliu d’uncote", it charge de l’autre d’un petit mor-ceau de plomb pour lui donner du poids.”— Samry.

“Guipure. A grosse black threadcovered or wliipt about with silk.”—Cotgrave.