28

HISTORY OF LACE.

ment of the lace manufacture throughout Europe. Acccording toM. Aubry, the laces known at that period were :—

1. Point or needle-made lace.—Principally made at Venice,Brussels, and in Spain.

2. Bisette.—A narrow, coarse, indented thread pillow lace ofthree qualities, made in the environs of Paris 21 by the peasant-women, principally for their own use. Though*proverbially oflittle value: “Ce n’est que cle la bisette,” 25 it formed an articleof traffic with the mercers and lingeres of the day.

3. Campane. 26 —A white, narrow, fine, indented thread pillowedging, 27 used to sew upon other laces, 28 either to widen them orto replace a worn-out picot or pearl.

4. Gueuse.—A thread lace, which owed to its simplicity thename it bore. The ground was network (a rescan), the flowers aloose, thick thread, worked in on a pillow, what is now called“torchon.” Gueuse was formerly an article of extensive con-

24 At Gisors, Saint-Denis, Montmo-rency, and Villiers-le-Bel. — Savary,Grand Diet, da Commerce, 1720.

Grtgrave gives, “ Bisette. A plate (ofgold, silver, or copper) wherewith somekinds of stuffes are stripped.” Oudin,“ Feudle ou paillette d’or ou d’argent.”As “ terme de passementier” it frequentlyoccurs in old inventories.

1545. “ 55 sols pour uno once hizotted’argent pour mectre a des colletz.”— Ac-counts of Madame Marguerite de France.Bib. Nut.

1570. “ Petite bizetto d’or fin dentellezdcs deux costez pour servir a des inanchcsde satin cramoisy” of Catherine deMedicis. — TrCsorerie de la royne mire duroy. Arch. Nat. K. K. 115.

In the Chartley Inv. 15S0, of MaryStuart, is mentioned, “ Un plotton debisette noire.”

25 “ Diet, de l’Academie.”

28 Campane, from “ sonnette, clochette,memo gielot.” “ Dos festons qu’on metaux etoffes et aux dentelles.”— Oudin.

27 Like • bizette, a “ terme do passe-mentier.” Campane lace was also made ofgold, and of coloured silks, for trimmingmantles, scarfs, &c. We find, in theGreat Wardrobe Accounts of George I.,1714, an entry of “Gold Campagnobuttons.”

Evelyn, in his “Fop’s Dictionary,”1G90, gives, “ Campane, a kind ofnarrow, pricked lace;” and in the“ Ladies’ Dictionary,” 1(394, it is de-scribed as “ a kind of nnrrow lace, pickedor scalloped.”

In the Great Wardrobe Account ofWilliam III., 1(388-9, wo l ave, “ lo poyntcompnnio tieniaj.”

28 In the last century it was much thofashion to trim the scalloped edges ofa broader lace with n narrower, whichwas called “ campaner.”

1720. “ Une garniture de teste a troispieces de dentelle d’Angleterre a raiseau,garni autour d’une campnne a dents.”—Inv. de la Vuclwsse de Bourbon.

1741. “Uno pairs do munches a trois

rangs do Malinesii raizeau enmpanee.”_

Inv. de dech de Mademoiselle MarieAnne de Bourbon de Clermont. Arch.Nat. X. 11,071. (Daughter of Made-moiselle de Nantes aud Louis Duke deBourbon.)

“ Une coeffure do Malines h raizeau adeux pieces enmpanee.”— Ibid.

In the lace hills of Madame du Barry,preserved in tho Bib. Nat, are variousentries of “Angletcrre et point a l’ai-guille, enmpanee des deux cote's,” forruffles, camisoles, &e.