44

HISTORY OF LACE.

pearls sometimes in scallops, “ campanile,” as the French term it.This is called “rose (from “raised”) point,” “gros point deVenise,” Ac. Coloured Plate II. is from the collerette of anItalian nobleman, worn only on state occasions. ColouredPlate III. is also a fine example; a “pale” 22 for covering thesacramental cup, made of silk of the natural cream colour, whichwith unbleached thread appears to have been greatly worn. Muchlace of this colour has found its way to Paris for sale since thepolitical changes in Italy. 23 Fig. 25 is an exquisite specimen ofthe fine raised point.

Though, to judge from the engravings of Yecellio, 24 lace wassparingly worn in general attire, yet at the reception of Henry III.of France, in 1574, by the Republic of Venice, he was astonishedat the jewels and laced ruffs of the two hundred ladies who ap-peared in white, at the ball given by the Republic, and at thedresses trimmed with gold lace, “ trina d’ oro,” and collars(“ bavari,”) made of wonderful design worked in needle-point atgreat expense. 25 The bed furniture of the monarch and his suiteis described with hangings of cloth of gold, and as having acurtain made in network of precious works of the needle. 28

If Venice exported largely her products, she seems also to haveimported foreign lace, as appears by the sumptuary edicts of1037 and 1053. In the first, the Provveditore alle Pompeprohibits the wearing, on the clothes of men and women, silklace, and pillow lace of Flanders, and others of excessive value,and in the other, prohibits “ merli,” or other ornament worked in“ ponto in aria, ponti Fiamminghe, filo di pita,” the thread of thealoe (Agave) worked in France, Flanders, and Lorraine, and at theend “merli” &c., worked in France, Flanders, England, and inevery other place out of the state.

The secret of making the Venetian points in relief was pro-bably long jealously preserved, and the monopoly of the tradewas consequently confined to Venice, who exported annually to

22 “ Toile de la pale.” A pasteboardabout 8 inches square, enclosed incambric or lace, used to cover the patenwhen laid over the cup.

22 The whole furniture of a room wastaken from a palace at Naples, comprisingcurtains, and vallance of a bed, windowcurtains, toilet, &c. of straw-colouredlaces, reticolla, embroidered netting, &c.;tho price asked was 18,000 francs = 720/.

24 “ Degli Habiti antichi et moderni,”Venezia, 1590. Author of the “ Corona”and “ Gioiello.”

22 “ llavari fatti con maraviglioso di-segno di lavori alle punta al aco digrand spesa.”

26 “ Padiglioni fatti a rete di pre-tiosa opera di ago .”—Manliu della Croa,1574.