NAPLES.

55

NAPLES.

When Davies, barber surgeon of London, 66 visited Naples in1 oIj 7, he writes, “ Among the traffic of tin’s city is lace of all sortssuid garters.”

Dynes Moryson, his contemporary, declares “ the Italians carenot for foreign apparel, they have ruffles of I landers linen wroughtwith Italian cutwork so much in use with us. -They wear no lacein gold and silver, but black; ” while Lassels says, all they careler is to keep a coach ; their point de Yenise and gold lace are allturned into horses and liveries. 67

Of this lace we find but scanty mention. In the tailor s bill ofkir Timothy Hutton, 1615, when a scholar at Cambridge, a chargeis made for “ four oz. and a half quarter and dram of Napleslace.” And in the accounts of laces furnished for the marriage ofthe Princess Elizabeth to the Elector Palatine, 1612, is noted‘ narrow black Naples lace, purled on both sides.’

Tlie principal fabric of lace was in the Island of Ischia.Yecellio, in 1590, mentions the ladies’ sleeves being trimmed withvery fine thread lace. 68 Ischia lace may still be met with, andserves for trimming toilets, table-covers, curtains, &c., consistinggenerally of a square netting ground, with the pattern embioidered.

Much torchon lace, of well-designed patterns, was also made,similar in style to that given in Fig- 34.

Though no longer fabricated in the island, the women at Naplesstill make a coarse lace, which they sell about the streets.

Towards the middle of the last century, many of the Italiansculptors adopted an atrocious system, only to be rivalled in badtaste by those of the Lower Empire, that of dressing the individualsthey modelled in the costume of the period, the colours of the

i*uu Aieifltion of the Trfl nd most miserable CaptivitieDavies” Loud. 1614.

97 “ An Italian Voyage, or a cfJourney through Italy, by Rich. 1Gent” 2nd edit. Loud. 1698. Aiwith additions by another hand,original edition. Paris, 1670. Do

“ Bibliographer’s Manual.” Bohredit.

G * “ Poitano alcune vesti di tela

sottile, lunghe fino in terra, con manicljelargheassai, attorno allequnli sonoattac-cati alcuni merletti lavorati di refe sot-tiiissimo.—Habiti di donna dell' Isolad’ Ischia .”—DegJi Habiti AnticM e Mo-demi di Diverse Parti del Mundo, diCksare Vecellio. Venezia, 1590.

69 We have among the points given byTaglienti (1530) “ pugliese.” Irfico isstill made in Puglia and the other south-ern provinces of Naples and in Sicily.