GENOA.

57

centre. It was particularly adapted for the large turn-over collarof Louis XIII., and was produced by plaiting, and made entirelyon the pillow (Fig. 29). We find little mention of Genoa point 73before the seventeenth century, 74 when it formed an article ofgreat commerce. The first allusion to these points is in theprohibitory edict of 1639, a period when Genoa point was inuniversal use for collars, 76 cuffs, and other articles of dress. 76

No better customer was found for these luxurious articles ofadornment than Madame de Puissieux. 77 “ File etoit magnifiqueet ruina elle et ses enfans. On portoit en ce temps-la,” writesSt.-Simon, “ force points de Genes qui etoient extremement chers;c’etoit la grande parure—et la parure de tout age: elle enmangea pour 100,000 ecus (20,000Z.) en une annee, a, ronger entreses dents celle qu’elle avoit autour de sa tete et de ses bras.” 78“ The Genoese utter a world of points of needlework,” writesLassels, at the end of the century, and throughout the eighteenthwe hear constantly of the gold, silver, and thread lace, as well asof the points of Genoa, being held in high estimation.

Gold and silver lace was prohibited to be worn within the wallsof the city, but they wear, writes Lady Mary Wortley Montagu,exceeding fine lace and linen. 79 Indeed, by the sumptuary lawsof the liepublic, the richest costume allowed to the ladies wasblack velvet trimmed with their home-made lace.

The “femmes bourgeoises” still edge their aprons with lace, and

7 ‘ Signore Tessada, the great lacefabricant of Genoa, carries back themanufacture of Italian lace as early asthe year 1400, and forwarded to theauthor specimens which he declares tobe of that date.

74 As late as 1597, writes Vulson de laColombiere, “ ni les points de Gennes, nide Flandre n’etoient en usage.”— VrayTheatre (THonneur et de Chevalerie.Paris, 1648.

75 Queen Christina is described by theGrande Mademoiselle, on the occasion ofher visit, as wearing, “ au cou, uninouchoir de point de Genes, noue' avecun ruban couleur de feu.”— Mtfm- deMademoiselle de Montpensier.

“ Item, ung peignoir, tablier etcornettede toile baptiste gamie de point doGenes.”— Inv. de la Comtesse de Soissom,1634.

“ Une petit manteau brode' et son col-let de point do Genes.”— The Chevalier<f Alhret.

“ I.inge, bijoux et points de Genes.”—Loret, Muse llistorique, 1650.

“ Item, ung autre mouchoir de pointde Genes.”— Inv. du Martfchal de LaMatte, 1657.

78 The “ Lois de la Galanterie Fran-goise,” 1644, speaking of the lace-trimmed“canons,” says, “ il sera toujours mieuxs’il y pout avoir deux ou trois rangs doPoint de Genes, ce qui accompagnera lejabot qui sera de memo parure.”

77 Madame de Puissieux died in 1677,at the age of 80.

78 “ Mem.” t. xiv. p. 286.

78 Signore Tessada has in his possessiona pair of gold lappets of very beautifuldesign, made at Genoa about the year1700.