102

HISTORY OF LACE.

—hence it is sometimes called “broilerie de Malines.” 37 It wasmade at Mechlin, Antwerp, Lierre, and Turnhout, but the manu-facture has long been on the decline. Lately, however, it appearsto have partially revived. Previous to 1665, as elsewhere stated,the name was given to all pillow laces of which the pattern wasrelieved by a Hat thread. It was only this that distinguished itfrom Valenciennes. When in the eighteenth century the reseauground was adopted, Malines still continued the bride also, whichwas generally preferred, especially in Prance. 38 According toSavary, the laces of Ypres, Bruges, Dunkirk, and Courtrai, passedat Paris under that name. 39

The statute of Charles II. having placed a bar to the intro-duction of Flanders lace into England, Mechlin neither appearsin the advertisements nor inventories of the time.

We find mention of this lace in France ns early as Anne ofAustria, who is described in the memoirs of Marion de l’Orme aswearing a veil “ en frizette de Malines.” 40 Again, the Mareehalde la Motte, who died in 1627, has, noted in his inventory, 41 apair of Mechlin ruffles.

Regnard, who visited Flanders in 1681, writes from Mechlin :“ The common people here, as throughout all Flanders, occupythemselves in making the white lace known as Malines, and theBeguinage, the most considerable in the country, is supported bythe work of the Beguines, in which they excel greatly.” 42

When, in 16!A), the English prohibition was removed, Mechlinlace became the grand fashion, and continued so during the suc-ceeding century. Queen Mary anticipated the repeal by someyears, for, in 1694, she purchased two yards of knotted fringe forher Mechlin ruffles, 43 which leads us to hope she had brought thelace with her from Holland; though, as early as 1699, we have

3 ’ ‘‘Une pnire de manchcttes de den-telle de Malines brodee.

“Quatie bonnets de unit garnis deMalines brodee.”— he. dedeeeede Made-moiselle de Charollah, 1758.

38 hv. de la Durherre de Bourbon,1720.

“ 1704 Deux fichus fra in is do dentelledo Malines li bride ou rc'zi an,

“ Une ernvutte avec les manchcttes depoint de Malines a bride.

“Deux Rut res omvattes de dentelle deMalines a rdzenu el trois paires de liiaii-

ebetles de pareille dentelle.”— Inv. deFranf. Phelypeavx Luieel. Bib. Nat.MSS. F. Fr. 11,159.

30 Inn. de decee de Madame Anne ,Palatine de Baviere, Priureete de Conde.1723. Arch. Nat. X. 10,005.

10 In tbe accounts of Madame duBarry, wo have “Malines batarde abordure.”

11 See p. 25.

* 2 “Voyage en Flamlre,” 1081.

43 B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751