ANTWERP.

105

Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, describing an admirer, writes—

“ With eager beat his Mechlin cravat moves—

He loves, I whisper to myself, he loves ! ”

It was the favourite lace of her late Majesty Queen Charlotte(Fig. 54) and of the Princess Amelia. Napoleon 1. was also agreat admirer of this fabric, and when he first saw the light Gothictracery of the cathedral spire of Antwerp, he exclaimed, “ C’estcomme de la dentelle de Malines.”

ANTWERP.

“At Antwerp, bought some ruffles of our agreeable landlady, and set out at2 o’clock for Brussels.”— Tour, by G. L. 1767.

Before finishing our account of the laces of Brabant, we musttouch upon the produce of Antwerp, which, though little differingfrom that of the adjoining towns, seems at one time to have beenknown in the commercial world. 49 In the year 1500 we have nomention of lace among the fabrics of Antwerp, at that periodalready flourishing, unless it be classed under the head of “ mercery,fine and rare.” 50 The cap, however, of an Antwerp lady 51 of thatperiod is decorated with fine lace of geometric pattern (Fig. 55).As early as 1098, the “Flying Postman” advertises as follows:“ Yesterday, was dropped between the Mitre Tavern and the corner

“ Deux peignoirs de toile d’Hollandeg :rnis de dentelle, l’une d’Augleterre abride et l’autre de Maline a raiseau.”—Inv. de la Ducliesse de Bourbon.

“ 1750. Une dormeuse de Malines.”—Inv. de Mademoiselle de Cliarollais.

“ 1770. 51 grande hauteur de Malinespour une paire de mancliettes, 264 francs.

“ 1 au. jabot pour le tour de gorge,16.

“ 5 au. 1 Malines pour gamir 3chemises au negre a 12 fr.” (the wretchZamor who denounced her).— Comptesde Madame du Barry.

“ 1788. 6 tayes d’oreiller gamies deMa'ines.”— Etat de ce qui a ete Journipour le renouvellemeid de Mgr. le Dauphin.Arch. Nat. K. 505, No. 20.

“ 1792. 2 tayes d’oreillier garnis demaline.”— Notes du linge du ci-devantItoi. Ibid. No. 8.

“ 1792. 24 fichus de batiste garnis deMaline.

“ 2 taye d'orilieT garnis de Maline.”—Ilenouvellement de M. le Due de Norman-die. Ibid.

4 * An arret, dated 14 Aug. 1688,requires that “ toutes les dentelles de fild’Anvers, Bruxelles, Malines et autreslieux de la Flandre Espagnolle,” shallenter only by Rousselars and Conde', andpay a duty of 40 livres per lb. Arch.Nat. Coll. Rondoneau.

50 In the list of foreign Protestantsresident in England, 1618 to 1688, wefind in London, Aldersgate .JVard, JacobJohnson, born at Antwerp, lace-maker,and Antony du Veal, lace-weaver, bornin Turny (Tournay).

51 This portrait has been engraved byVerbruggen, who gives it as that ofCatherine of Aragon.