114
HISTORY OF LACE.
CHAPTER VIII.
FRANCE TO LOUIS XIV.
“ 11 est une dtiesso inconstante, incommode,llizarre dans ses gofits, folle en ses ornements,
Qui pnrait, fuit, revient, et rerait, en tout temps:l’rotec etait son pure, et son nom est la Mode.”
Voltaire.
“ To day the FrenchAll clinquant, all in gold.”
Shakespeare.
To the Italian influence of the sixteenth century France owes thefashion for points coupes and lace . 1 It was under the Yalois andthe Medicis that the luxury of embroidery, laces of gold, silver,and thread, attained its greatest height, and point coupe was asmuch worn at that epoch as were subsequently the laces of Italyand Flanders.
The ruff, or fraise, as it was termed, from its fancied resem-blance to the caul 2 or frill of the calf, first adopted by Henry II . 3to conceal a scar, continued in favour with his sons. The queenmother herself wore mourning from the day of the king’s death ;no decoration, therefore,appears upon her wire-mounted ruff ; 4 butthe fraises of her family and the “ escadron volante ” are profusely
1 Italian fashions appeared early inFrance. Isabeau de Bavifere, wearer ofthe Oriental “ hennin,” and Valentine deMilan, first introduced the rich tissuesof Italy. Louis XI. sent for workmenfrom Milan, Venioe, and Pistoia, to whomhe granted various privileges, whichCharles VIII. confirmed.
» In Ulpian Fulwell’s “Interlude,”15C8, Nichol Newfangle says—
“ I learn to make gowns with longsleeves and wings,
I learn to make ruffs like calves’chitterlings.”
3 “Collerettcs et manchettes fraises
firent leur premiere entre'e dans le costumedes liommes vers 1510.”— Quicherat, His-toire du Costume en France.
4 The queen was accused by herenemies of having, by the aid of MaitreRene, “ empoisonneur en titre,” termi-nated the life of Queen Jeanne de Navarre,in 1571, by a perfumed ruff (not gloves)(“ Description de la Vie de Catherine deMedicis”); and her favourite son, theDuke d’Alentjon, was said, circa 1575, tohave tried to suborn a valet to take awaythe life of his brother Henry, by scratch-ing him in the back of his neck with apoisoned pin, when faste ning his fraise.