FHAXCE TO LOUIS XIV.

115

trimmed with the geometric work of the period, and the makingof laeis and point coupe, as before mentioned, was the favouriteemployment of her court. Catherine encouraged dress and ex-travagance, and sought by brilliant fetes to turn people s mindsfrom politics. In this she was little seconded either by her husbandor gloomy son King Charles; hut Henry III. and his “mignonsfrisds et fraises ” were tricked out in garments of the brightestcolours, toques and toquets, pearls, earrings, and jewels. Theruff was the especial object of royal interest. With his own handhe used the poking-sticks and adjusted the plaits. “ Gaudronneurdes collets de sa femme ” was the soubriquet bestowed on him bythe satirists of the day. 5

By 1579 the ruffs of the French court had attained such anoutrageous size, “un tiers d’aulne” 6 in depth, that the wearerscould scarcely turn their heads. 7 So absurd was the effect, thejournalist of Henry III. 8 declares, “they looked like the head ofJohn the Baptist in a charger.”

Nor could they eat so encumbered. It is told how HeineMargot one day, when seated at dinner, was compelled to sendtor a spoon with a handle 2 feet in length wherewith to eat hersoup. 9 These monstrosities, “ so stiffened they cracked likepaper,” 10 found little favour beyond the precincts of the Louvre.They were caricatured by the writers of the day; and in 1579a band of students decked themselves out in large paper ruffsafter the royal cut, and paraded the fair of St.-Germain, shout-ing, “A la fraise on connoit le veau.” The king arrived un-expectedly, and sent them to prison for their impertinence. 11Suddenly, in 157 5, the fraise gave way to the “ rabat,” or turn-downcollar, but both were worn alternately for some time. In vain

5 “ Satyre ilenippee,” Paris, 1593.

* “ Chronologic novenaire,” Viet. P.Cayet.

’ “ S’iIs se tournoient. chucun sereeuluit crainte de gater leurs fraizes.”—Satyre Menippee.

" Le col no Be tourne a leur aiseHans le long reply de leur fraise.”

\ ertus el Propritftes des Mignons, 157C.

" “ ties beaux mignous portoientleurs fraizes de chemise de toute d’ienipesez et longues d im demi-piiifuijon iju’a voir leurs to.,tea dessus

fraizes, il sembloit que ce fut le chef deSaint-Jean dans un plat ."—Journal dellenri III., Pierre de VEstoille.

9 “Perroniaua,” Cologne, 1(591.

10 “ Goudroimees en tuyaux d’orgue,fraisees en clioux ere'pus, et grandescouune des nieules de inoulin ."—Blaisede Yiginiere.

“La fiaize vcaudelisee h six ctages.”

Im Mode qui Court, Paris, X. D.

11 “ Appelez par les Espagnols ‘ leolm-guillns,’ ou petites laitues, a cause durapport de ces gaudruus repliees avi c lesfraisures de la laitue .”—Histoire de laVille de Paris, D. Mich. Fe'lihien.