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HISTORY OF LACE.

The Chancellor Herault, 24 who died at the same period, wasequally extravagant in his habits, while the shirts of thecombatants in the duel between M. de Creqny and Don Philippede Savoie (1598) are specially vaunted as “toutes garnies du plusfin et du plus riche point coupe qu’on eust pu trouver dans cetemps la, auquel le point de G-ennes et de Flandres n’estoient pasen usage.” 25

The enormous wire-mounted collerette, rising behind her headlike a fan, of Mary de Medicis, with its edgings of fine lace, arewell known to the admirers of Rubens:—

“ Cinq colets de dentelle haute de demy-pitL’un sur l’autre montez, qni no vont qu’lt moilie'

De eeluy de dessus, car elle n’est pas leste,

Si lo premier ne passe une paulme la teste.” 20

On the accession of Louis XIII. (1010) luxury knew no bounds.The queen regent was magnificent by nature, while Richelieu,anxious to hasten the ruin of the nobles, artfully encouragedtheir prodigality. But Mary was compelled to repress this tastefor dress. The courtiers importuned her to increase theirpensions, no longer sufficient for the exigencies of the day. Thequeen, at her wits’ end, published in 1618 a “Reglement pourles superfluites des habits,” prohibiting all lace and embroidery. 27

France had early sent out books of patterns for cut work andembroidery. That of Francisque Pelegrin was published at Parisin the reign of Francis 1.

Six were printed at Lyons alone. The four earlier have nodate, 28 the two others bear those of 1549 29 and 1585. 30 It was tothese first that Yinciolo so contemptuously alludes in his dedication“ Aux Benevolles Lecteurs,” saying, “ Si les premiers ouvragesque vous avez vus ont engendre quelque fruit et utilite je m’assureque les miens en produiront davantage.” Various editions of

24 “ Manchettes et collets enrichys depoint couppe.”— Invenlaire apres le decesde Messire Philippe Ilerault, Comte deCheverny, Chancelier de France, 1599.Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,424.

25 Yulson de la Colombiere, “ VrayTheatre d’Honueur et de Chevalerie,”1647.

211 “ Satyrique de la Cour,” 1613.

21 “ Ilistoire de la Mere et du Fils,”from 1G16-19. Amsterdam, 1729.

29 “Livre nouveau diet Patrons deLingerie,” &c.

“Patrons de diverses Manieres,” &c.(Title in rhyme.)

“ S’ensuyveut les Patrons de MesireAntoine Belin.”

“ Ce Livre est plaisant et utile.”(Title in rhyme.)

20 “ La Fleur des Patrons de Lin-gerie.”

30 “ Tresor des Patrons,” J. Ostons.