122

HISTORY OF LACE.

In the “ Prodigal Son,” of Abraham Boss?, the mother, waitinghis return, holds out to her repentant boy a collar trimmed with therichest point. The “ Foolish Virgins ” weep in lace-trimmed hand-kerchiefs, and the table-cloth of the rich man, as well as hisdinner napkins, are similarly adorned. Again, the “Accouche.-”recovers in a cap of Italian point under a coverlet of the same.At the “ lietour de Bapteme,” point adorns the christening dress ofthe child and the surplice of the priest.

When, in 16lf), LouisXIII. married, Anne of Austria discardedthe collerettes of the mother rpieeii—the reign of Italy was at anend—all was now a l’espagnole and the court of Castile.

The prodigality of the nobles 36 having called down royalordinances on their heads, 37 these new edicts bring forth freshsatires, in which the author deplores the prohibition of cutworkand lace:—

“ Ces points couppez, pnssemens et dentelles,

Las! <[iii venaient do 1’Isle et de Bruxelles,

Sent inaintenant descriez, avilis,

Et sans favour gisent ensevelis ; ” 38blit

“ l'our vivru heureux et ii la inodeII faut que chacun nccommodoSea habits aux edit/, du roi.”

Edict now follows on edict. 39 One known as the Code

38 The inventory of tho unfortunateMarcchal de Marilluc, beheaded 1032,has “ broderye et poiuetz d'Espagnesd’or, argent et soyc; rabats et collets dopoint couppe ; taffetas nacarat garnye dedantelle d’argent; pourpoinct passementede dantelle de canetille de Flandre,” &c.Bib. Nut. MSS. F. Fr. 11,420.

31 1020. Feb. 8. “ Declaration portantdeffenses do porter lies clinquants, passe-inents, broderies,” &c. Arch. Nat. G.G. G.

1028. March 20. “ Declaration qui

defend l’usage des etofles d’or,” &c.—Jiecueil (leg anciennes Lois Francoises,tome xvi. 107.

1G25. Sept. 80. “Declaration” prohibitsthe wearing “ taut en collets, fraizes,munehettes, et autres linges des passe-ments, Point coupcz et Dantelles, commeaussi des Broderies et Decoupures sur-quintin ou autre toille.” Bib. Nat.L. i. 8.

38 “ Consolation des Dames sur laReformation des passemens,” 1020.

30 Again, 1033, Nov. 18, “Declaration”restricts the prohibition; permits “ passe-ments manufactures dans le royaume quin’excoderont 9 11. l’aune.” Arch. Nat.G. G. G.

1034. May 30. “ Lettres patentee pourla reformation du luxe des habits ”prohibits “ dentelles, passements et bro-deries ” on lioots, carriages, &c. BritishMuseum.

1030. April 3. “Declaration contrele I.uxe.” Again prohibits both foreignand home-made points coupe's, &c., underpain of banishment for five years, confis-cation, and a lino of 0000 francs. De laMare, “ Truite de la Police.”

1039. Nov. 21. Fiesli prohibiiion,points de Genes specially mentioned.Not to wear on the collar, cuffs, or boots,“ autres choscs que de la toile simple sansaueune faqon.” Arch. Nat. G. G. G.