128

HISTORY OF LACE.

lesquelles elles avoient jetees d’autre robes et dentelles noirestransparentes.” 13 Under Louis XIV., the gold and silver pointsof Spain and Anrillac rivalled in fashion the thread manufacturesof Flanders and Italy, but towards the close of the century, 14we are informed, they have fallen into the “ domaine du vulgaire.”

The ordinance of 1G60 had but little effect, for various othersare issued in the following years, with the oft repeated prohibitionsof the points of Genoa and Venice. 15 llut edicts were of littleavail. No royal command could compel people to substitute thelaces of France 16 for the artistic productions of her sister countries.Colbert, therefore, wisely adopted another expedient. He de-termined to develop the lace manufacture in France, and toproduce fabrics which should rival the coveted points of Italyand Flanders, so that if fortunes were lavished upon these luxuries,the money, at all events, should not be sent out of the kingdomto procure them.

By his order were suborned from Venice and the LowCountries a number of the most skilful workwomen, whom hedistributed among the manufactories already existing, and intowns where he established new ones.

A declaration of the 5th August 1665 orders the establish-ment in the towns of Du Quesnoy, Arras, Rheims, Sedan, Chateau-Thierry, Loudun, Alenfon, Aurillac, and others in the kingdom,of the manufacture of all sorts of works of thread, as well of theneedle as on the pillow, in the manner of the points which are madeat Venice, Genoa, llagusa, and in other foreign countries, whichshall be called “points de France.” 17 An exclusive privilege isgiven for ten years, and a grant of 36,000 francs. A company was

13 Madame de Se'vigne mentions thesedresses : “ Avez-vous oul parler destrausparens '/ . . . de robes noires trans-parentes ou des belles dentelles d’Angle-terre?”— Lettres. Transparents were lighttissues upon which were applied flowersand foliage painted by hand.

“ li.OO. “ Chron. de l’CEil-de-Bceuf.”

14 1061, May 27; 1662, Jan. 1 ; 1664,May 31, Sept 18, and Dec. 12.

16 “ On fabriquait preccdement cesespbces de dentelles guipures, dont nousvoyont encore quelques restes, et dont onornait les aubes des pretres, les rochetsdes evcques ct les jupons des femmes dequalite .”—Roland de la 1'lature. The

articles on lace by Roland and Savaryhave been copied by idl succeedingwriters on the subject.

" We have in vain sought for thisordinance in the Library of the Cour deCassation, where it is stated to bo by theauthors of the “ Recueil des Lois fran-9 aises,” but fortunately it is recited ina subsequent arret, dated 12 October1666 (Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondoueau), bywhich it appears that the declarationordered the establishment, in “ les villesdu Quesnoy, Arras, Reims, Sedan,Chateuu-Thierry, Loudun, Alen<;on, Au-rillac, et autres du royuume, do la manu-facture de toutes oortes d'ouvrages de fil,