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HISTORY OF LACE.
coups pcrfkles ” and “ vcncz-y-voir ” in emertilds. Her hair “ensentiments soutenus,” with a cap of “ conquete assuree,” trimmedwith ribbons of “ mil abattu a “ chat 6 sur le col,” the colour of“ gueux nouvellement arrive,” and upon her shoulders a Medic-is“ en bienseance,” and her muff of “ agitation momentanee.”
In the accounts of Mademoiselle Uertin, the queen’s milliner,known for her saying, “ II n’y a rien de nouveau dans ce mondequo ce qui est oublie,” we have little mention of lace. 7
“ Blond a fond d’Alenfon seme a poix, a mouches,” now usurpsthe place of the old points. Even one of the “ grandes dames dela vieille cour,” Madame Adelaide de France herself, is representedin her picture by Madame Guiard with a spotted handkerchief,probably of blonde (Fig. 77).
The church alone protects the ancient fabrics. The lace of theliohan family, almost hereditary prince-archbishops of Straslmrg,w as of inestimable value. “ We met,” w rites the llaroness deOberkirch, “ the cardinal coming out of his chapel dressed in asoutane of scarlet moire and rochet of English lace of inestimablevalue. When on great occasions he officiates at Versailles, hewears an alb of old lace ‘en point a l’aiguille,’ of such beauty thathis assistants were almost afraid to touch it. l lis arms and deviceare worked in a medallion above the large flowers. This alb isestimated at 100,LOO livres. On the day of which I speak hewore the rochet of English lace, one of his least beautiful, as hissecretary, the Abbe Georget, told me.” 8
On his elevation to the see of Bourges, 1850, Monseigneur deLa Tour d’Auvergne celebrated mass at Home arrayed with all thesacerdotal ornaments of point d’Alenqon of the finest workman-ship. This lace descended to him from his uncle, Cardinal de LaTour d’Auvergne, who had inherited them from his mother, Madame(l’Aumale, so well known as the friend of Madame Maintenon.Under the first empire a complete suit of lace was offered to the
“ “Souvenirs du Marquis de Vulfuns,1710-1786. A “chat,” tippet orl»ilatine; so named after the mother ofthe regent.
7 In the National Archives, formerlypreserved with the “Livre Rouge,” inthe Armuire de Fer, is the “Gazettepour l’annc 1782,” of Marie-Antoinette,consisting of a list of the dresses furnishedfor the queen during the year, drawn upby the Comtesse d’Ossunc, her “dame
des ntours.” We find—“ grands habits,robes sur le grand panier, lobes sur lepetit punier,” with a pattern of the mate-rial affixed to each entry, and the nameof the “ couturicre” who made the dress,Ono “ I.ev.te ” alone uppears trimmedwith blonde. There is also the Gazetteof Madame Elizabeth, for 1792.
* “ Me'moires sur la Cour de LouisXYL’