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HISTORY OF LACE.

Point d’Alengon is of a solidity which defies time and washing,and has been justly called the Queen of Lace. It is the only lacein which horsehair is introduced along the edge, to give firmnessand consistency to the cordonnet, rendered perhaps necessary tomake the point stand up when exposed to wind, mounted on thetowering fabrics then worn by the ladies. The objection to horse-hair is that it shrinks in washing, and draws up the flower fromthe ground. In 1761, a writer, describing the point de France,says that it does not arrive at the taste and delicacy of Brussels,its chief defect consisting in the thickness of the cordonnet, whichthickens when put into water. The horsehair edge also draws upthe ground, and makes the lace rigid and heavy. He likewisefinds fault with the “ modes,” or fancy stitches of Alengon, andstates that much point is sent from there to Brussels to have themodes added, thereby giving it a borrowed beauty, but connois-seurs, he adds, easily detect the difference. 11

When the points of Alengon and Argentan dropped thegeneral designation of “points de France” is difficult to say.Probably at the expiration of the privilege, each manufacturebegan to adopt its own name. The last inventory in which wehave found mention of “ point de France ” is one of 1723, 12 whilepoint d’Argentan is noted in 1738, 13 and point d’Alengon in 1741,where it is specified to be “ a reseau.” 14

In the accounts of Madame du Barry, no point d’Alengon ismentioned—always point a l’aiguille—and “ needle point ” is thename by which point d’Alengon was alone known in Englandduring the last century. The purchases of needle point of Madamedu Barry were most extensive. Sleeves (engageantes) and lappetsfor 8400 livres; court ruffles at 1100; a mantelet at 2400; aveste at 6500; a grande coeffe, 1400; a garniture, 6010, &c. 15

Coloured Plate VIII. represents a beautiful lappet which, in herformer edition, the Author has placed under Genoa, as it was sent

11 “ Dictionnaire du Citoyen,” Paris,1761.

12 “ Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine,Princesse de Conde'.” See p. 131.

11 In the inventory of the Due de Pen-thievre, 1738. See p. 113.

14 “ Une coiffure de point d’Aleugonhraiaeau.”— Inv. de decie de Mademoisellede Clermont, 1741- Again, 1713, Inv. dela Duchesse de Bourbon. Bib. Nat.

15 Among the objects of religious artexhibited in 1864, at the General Assem-bly of the Catholics of Belgium, atMalines, was a “voile de benediction,”the handkerchief used to cover theciborium, of point d'Alengon, with figuresof the Virgin, St. Catherine, St. Ursul»iand St. Barbara. It belonged to thechurch of St. Christopher at Charleroi.