184

HISTORY OF LACE.

at Chantilly an elderly lady, granddaughter of an old proprietor,who had in her possession one of the original pattern books of thefabric, with autograph letters of Marie-Antoinette, the Frincesse deLamballe, and other ladies of the court, giving their orders andexpressing their opinion on the laces produced. We find in theinventories of the last century, “ coeffure de cour de dentelle desoye noire,” “mantelet garni de dentelles noires,” a “ petite duchesseet une respectueuse,” and other “ coeft’es,” all of “ dentelle de soye

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noire. y

White blonde appears more sparingly. The Duchesse de1 hints has “ une paire de manchettes a trois rangs, deux fichus etdeux paires de sabots en blonde; ” 10 the latter to wear, probably,with her “ robe en singe.” Du Barry purchases more largely. 11

Fig. 80.

IllitiyS#/ , -m

Cbantilly (reduced). From one of the ouIt books, temp. Louis XVI.

Fig. 86 is a specimen taken from the above-mentioned patternbook; the flowers and ground are of the same silk, the flowersworked “en grille,” or open stitch, instead of the compact tissueof the “ blondes mates ” of the Spanish style. This is essentially“ Chantilly lace.” Chantilly first created the black silk laceindustry, and deservedly it retains her name, whether made thereor in Calvados. Chantilly black lace has always been madeof silk, but from its being a grenadine, not a shining silk, a

so high a reputation the fabrics ofChantilly.

9 Iuv. do deees dc la Duchesse deModene,” 1761.

10 “Inv.dedecesduDucdeDuras,” 1789.

11 “ Une fraise a deux rangs de blondetres-finc, grande hauteur, 120 1.

“ Une paire de sabots de la rnoineblonde, 84 I.

“ Un fichu en colonette, la fraise garniea deux rangs d’une tres-bello blonde fondd’Alen^on, 120 1.

“ Un pouff horde d’un plisse de blondetoumante fond d’Aloni^in, ii bouquetstres-fins et des bouillons de menus blonde.”This wonderful coiffure being finishedwith “ Un beau panache de quatre plumescouleurs imperiales, 108 1.”