GERMANY (NORTH AND SOUTH).

233

A large colony settled at Halle, where they made “ Hun-garian” lace—“point de Hongrie,” 27 a term more generallyapplied to a stitch in tapestry. 28 The word, however, does occasion-ally occur:—

“ Your Hungerland 73 bands and Spanish quellio ruffs,

Great Lords and Ladies feasted to survey.” 30

Fynes Moryson expresses surprise at the simplicity of theGerman costume—ruffs of coarse cloth, made at home. TheDantzickers, however, he adds, dress ' more richly. “ Citizens’daughters of an inferior sort wear their hair woven with lacestitched up with a border of pearl. Citizens’ wives wear muchlace of silk on their petticoats.” Dandyism began in Germany,says a writer, 31 about 1626, when the women first wore silver,which appeared very remarkable, and “at last indeed which lace.”A century later luxury at the baths of Baden had reached anexcess unparalleled in the present day. The bath mantles,“ equipage de bain,” of both sexes are described as trimmed withthe richest point, and after the bath were spread out ostentatiouslyas a show on the baths before the windows of the rooms. Lordsand ladies, princesses and margraves, loitered up and down,passing judgment on the laces of each new arrival. 32

This love of dress, in some cases, extended too far, for BishopDouglas 33 mentions how the Leipzig students “ think it morehonourable to beg, with a sword by their side, of all they meetthan to gain their livelihood. I have often,” he says, “ given afew groschen to one finely powdered and dressed with sword andlace ruffles.”

Concerning the manufactures of the once opulent cities ofNuremberg and Augsburg, we have no record. In the first-men-tioned was published, in 1601, the model book, engraved on

27 11 1.a France Protestante, par M.M. Haag,” Paris, 1846-59.

28 “ Item. Dix oarrez de tapisserye apoinctz de Hongrye d’or, d’argent et soyede differends patrons.”— Inv. apres le decitdu Mnrechnl de MariVac, 1632. Bib.Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,424.

20 Hungary was so styled in the seven-teenth century. In a “Relation of themost famous Kingdoms and Common

Weales through the World.” London,1608, we find “Hungerland."

30 “ City Madam,” Massinger.

31 “Pictures of German Life, in theFifteenth, Sixteenth, and SeventeenthCenturies,” by Gustaf Freytag.

32 “ Merveilleux Amusements des Bainsde Bade,” Londres, 1739.

33 Bishop of Salisbury, “Letters.”1748-9.