SWEDEN.

247

Towards the end of 1500, the term “ passement ” appears ingeneral use, in an inventory of “ Pontns de la Gardic.”

In the neighbourhood of Wadstena, old soldiers, as well aswomen, may be seen of a summer’s evening sitting at the cottagedoors making lace. Though no other lace manufactory can besaid to exist in Sweden beyond that of Wadstena, still much laceis made by the peasantry for home consumption. The author hasreceived from the Countess Elizabeth Piper, late grande maitresseto her majesty the Queen of Sweden, specimens of coarse pillowlaces, worked by the Scanian peasant-women, which, she writes,“ form a favourite occupation for the women of our province.”

Fig. 104.

Itelecarliao lace.

Far more curious are the laces that have been sent to us, madeby the peasants of Dalecarlia, still retaining the patterns used inthe rest of Europe two hundred years since. The broader 19 kinds,of which we give a woodcut (Fig. 104), are from Gaguef, that partof Dalecarlia where laces are mostly made and used. Marriedwomen wear them on their summer caps, much starched, as ashelter against the sun. Others, of an unbleached thread, are fromOrsa. This lace is never washed, as it is considered an elegance

*• Some are twice the width of Fitr. 104.