256

HISTORY OF LACE.

In a MS. called “ The Boke of Curtasye a sort of treatiseon etiquette, in which all grades of society are taught their duties—the chamberlain is commanded to provide for his master’s up-rising, a “ clene shirte,” bordered with lace and curiously adornedwith needlework.

The correspondence, too, of Honourable Lady Lisle, seized byHenry VIII. 24 as treasonous and dangerous to the state, embracesa hot correspondence with one Sceur Antoinette de Sevenges, anun milliner of Dunkirk, on the important subject of nightcaps, 25one half-dozen of which, she complains, are far too wide behind,and not of the lozenge (cut) work pattern she had selected. Thenightcaps were in consequence to be changed.

Anne Basset, daughter of the said Lady Lisle, educated in aFrench convent, writes earnestly begging for an “edge of perle 26for her coif and a tablete (tablier) to ware.” Her sister Mary, too,gratefully expreses her thanks to her mother, in the same year, 27for the “ laced gloves you sent me by bearer.” Calais was stillan English possession, and her products, like those of the Scotchborder fortresses, were held as such. 28

Lace still appears but sparingly on the scene. Among theprivy purse expenses of the king in 1530, 29 we find five shillingsand eightpence paid to Richard Cecyll, 30 groom of the robes, foreight pieces of “ yolowe lace, bought for the King’s Grace.” We

24 In 15H9.

25 “ Lisle Corr.” vol. i. p. 64.P. K. O. Lord Lisle was governor ofCalais, whence the letter is dated.

“ Honor. Lylle io Madame Antoinette deSevenges, a Dunkerke.

“ Madame,—Je ne vous ensse volluen voier ceste demi dousaine pourcliangiernestoit qno toils celles que menvoiezdemierement sont trop larges, et unedouBaine estoit de cesluy ouvrage dontjestis esmerveille, veu que je vous avoisescript que menvoissiez de louvrage auxlozenges, vous priant que la demydousaine que menvoierez pour cestedemy dousaine soicnt du diet ouvrage delozenge, et quil soient plus estroictesmesmement par devant noeobstant quelexemple est au contraire.”

21 Among the marriage clothes of

Mary Neville, who espoused GeorgeClifton, 1536, is:—

“ A neyge of perle, II. 4s. 0d.”

In the pictures, at Hampton CourtPalace, of Queens Mary and Elizabeth,and another of Francis II., all as children,their ruffs are edged with a very narrowpurl.

27 1538. “Lisle Corr.’ P. R. O.

2 * See p. 255.

22 Privy Purse Ex. Hen. VIII. 1529-1532. Sir H. Nicolas.

w Father of Lord iiurleigh. Thereare other similar entries :—“ 8 pieces ofyellow silk, 9s. id." Also, “green silklace.”

1632, “green silk lace” occurs again,as trimming a pair of French shoes in a“ Bill of shoes for Sir Francis Windebankand family .”—State Papers, Dom. vol.ccxxi. P. B. O.