262

HISTORY OF LACE.

The same term is used in the “ Tatler ” 53 and “ Spectator,” 54and in the list of prizes given, in 1752, by the Society of Anti-Gallicans, we find, “ Six pieces of bone lace for men’s ruffles.” Itcontinued to be applied in the acts of parliament and noticesrelative to lace, nearly to the end of the last century. 55 After atime, the sheep’s trotters or bones having been universally replacedby bobbins of turned boxwood, the term fell into disuse, though itis still retained in Belgium and Germany.

But to return to Queen Mary Tudor. We have among the“ late Queen Mary’s clothes ” an entry of “ compas ” lace; pro-bably an early name for lace of geometric pattern. Openworkedging of gold and passamaine lace also occur; and on her galarobes, lace of “ Venys gold,” as well as “vales of black network,”a fabric to which her sister, Queen Elizabeth, was most partial;“ partlets, dressings, shadowes, and pynners ‘ de opere rete,’ ”appearing constantly in her accounts. 56

We find in the entries from this period frequent mention ofparchment lace.

From the privy purse expenses of the Princess Mary, 57 we findshe gives to Lady Calthorpe a pair of sleeves of “ gold, trimmedwith parchment lacea favourite donation of hers, it would appear,by the following anecdote :—

“ A great man’s daughter,” relates Strype 58 (the Duke ofSuffolk’s daughter, the Lady Jane Grey), “ receiving from LadyMary, before she was queen, goodly apparel of tinsel, cloth of gold,and velvet, laid on with parchment lace of gold, when she saw it,said, ‘ What shall I do with it ? ’ Mary said, ‘ Gentlewoman, wearit.’ ‘Nay/ quoth she, ‘that were a shame to follow my LadyMary against God’s word, and leave my Lady Elizabeth, whichfolloweth God’s word.’ ”

ss “The things you follow and makesongs on now, should be sent to knit, orsit down to bobbins or bone-late.”—Tatler.

54 “ We destroy the symmetry of thehuman figure, and foolishly combine tocall otf the eye from great and realbeauties, to childish gewgaw ribbandsand bone-lace.”— Spectator.

55 It is used in Walpole’s “ NewBritish Traveller,” 1784.

"" “Kidem pro 4 pec’ de opeia Khet’

bon’ florat’ in forma opcr' sciss’ ad 24s.,41. 16s.”— G. W. A. Eliz. 43 to 44.

“ 1.078-79. New Year’s Gifts. BaronessShandowes. A vail of blaek networkflourished with flowers of silver and asmall bone-lace.”— Nichols.

47 1536-44. Sir Fred. Madden.

“ 2 payr of sleeves whereof one of goldw h p’chemene lace,” &c.

“ 2 prs. of sieves w h pelimyn lase, 8/6.’

58 “ Ecclesiastical Memoirs,” iii. 2,’167.