206

HISTORY OF LACE.

coronat’ tie auro et arg’ ”—gold and silver crown lace—and“ laqueo alb’ lat’ bon’ operat’ super oss’ ”—broad white lace workedupon bone—she pays the sum of 35s. 7

Then there is the Spanish stitch, already mentioned as intro-duced by Queen Katherine, and true stitch, 8 laid-work, 9 net-work,black work, 10 white work, and cutwork.

Of chain stitch we have many entries, such as “ Six caules ofknotwork, worked with chain stitcli and bound ‘cum tapem ’ (tape),of sister’s (nun’s) thread.” 11 A scarf of white stitch-work appearsalso among the New Year’s gifts.

As regards the use, however, of these ornaments, the queenstood no nonsense. Luxury for herself was quite a different affairfrom that of the people; for, on finding that the London appren-tices had adopted the white stitching and garding as a decorationfor their collars, she put a stop to all such finery by ordering 12 thefirst transgressor to be publicly whipped in the hall of his com-pany.

Laid-work, which, maybe, answers to our modern plumetis, orsimply signified a braidwork, adorned the royal garters, “ Frauncie,”which, worked “ cum laidwork,” stitched, and trimmed “ in ambo-bus lateribus ” with gold and silver lace, from which hung silverpendants, “ tufted cum serico color,” cost her majesty 33s. thepair. 13

The description of these right royal articles appears to havegiven as much trouble to describe as it does ourselves to translatethe meaning of her accountant.

The drawn-work, “ opus tract’,” seems to have been but a

7 G. \V. A. Eliz. 16 & 17.

8 “ Eidem pro 6 manuterg’ de camerickoperat’ cum serico nigra trustich,” &c.—O. IF. A. Eliz. 41 & 42, and, again, 44.

9 1572. Inventory of Thomas Swin-burne, of Ealingkam, Esq.

“ His Apparell.”

“ A wellwett cote layd with silver las.

“A satten doublet layd with silver las.

‘ A payr of wellwett sleeves layd withsilver las.”— Surtees Wills and Inv.

10 New Year’s gifts, Lady MarySydney: “ A smock and two pillow

beres of cameryck wrought with black-

work and edged with a broad boue-lacoOf black sylke.”

" “ Eidem pro 0 caules alb’ nndut

opat’ cu’ le chainestich et ligat’ cu’ tapede filo soror, ad 14*., 41. 4«.”— G. IF. A.Eliz. 41 & 42.

Also, in the last year of her reign(1602', we find :—

“Six fine net caules flourished withchaine stitch with sister’s thread.”—Wardrobe Accounts. B. M. Add. MSS.No. 5751.

12 In 1583.

13 G. W. A. Eliz. 38 & 39. We have italso on ruffs.

“ Eidem pro 2 sutes de lez rufis bon’ dela lawne operat’ in le laid work et edgedcum ten’ bon’ ad 70*. per pec’, 71.”— G.IF. A. Eliz. 43 & 44.