270

HISTORY OF LACE.

times of Flanders ; 32 the ruffs edged with bone lace, 33 needle lace, 34or purle. 35

The needle lace is described as “ curiously worked,” “ operat’cum acu curiose fact’,” at 32s. the yard. 36 The dearest is specifiedas Italian. 37 We give a specimen (Coloured Plate XV.; see p. 334)of English workmanship, said to be of this period, which is veryelaborate. 38

The thread used for lace is termed “ filo soror,” or nun’s thread,such as was fabricated in the convents of Flanders and Italy. 39If, however, Lydgate, in his ballad of “ London Lackpenny,” is anauthority, that of lhiris was most prized:—

“ Another lie taked me by his hand,

Hero is Paris thredde, the finest in the land.”

Queen Elizabeth was not patriotic; she got and wore her bonelace from whom she could, and from all countries. If she did notpatronise English manufacture, on the other hand, she did notencourage foreign artisans; for when, in 1572, the Flemishrefugees desired an asylum in England, they were forcibly expelledfrom her shores. In the census of 1471, giving the names of allthe strangers in the City of London, 40 including the two makers ofbillament lace already cited, we have but four foreigners of thelace craft: one described as “ Mary Jurdaine, widow, of the French

32 “ For one yard of double Flanderscutwork worked with Italian purl, 33s.■Ul”—G. W. A. Eliz. 33 & 34.

33 “ 3 suits of good lawn cutwork ruffsedged with good bone lace ‘ operat’ supeross’,’ at 70s. 101. IQs.”—Ibid. 43 & 44.

34 “ 7 virg’ Tenie lut’ operis acui, adOs. 8<Z., 4Gs. Hd.”—Ibid. 37-38.

33 “ Eidem pro 2 pectoral’ de ope’sciss’ fact’ de Italic’ et Flaundr’ purle,ad 40s.”— Hid. 42 & 43.

“ Eidem pro 1 virg’ de Tenie de opereacuo cum lo purle Italic’ dc cons’ ope’acuo 20 s.”—Ibid. 40 & 41.

36 Eliz. 44 = 1603.

37 “ 3 yards broad needlework lace ofItaly, with the purls of similar work, atSOs. per yard, SI. 15s.”— ibid. 41-42.

Rone lace varies in price from 40s. thedozen to I is. 6cZ. the yard; needle-madelace from 6s. 8 d. to 50s. G. \V. A.passim.

38 Lace is always called “lacquous”

in the great wardrobe accounts, up to1595-6, after which it is rendered “tamia.”Roth terms seem, like our “ lace,” to havebeen equally applied to silk passements.

“ Galons de soye, de l’espece qui peu-vent ctre denomiues par le terme latinde ‘ tamiola.’ ”

“ Laqueus, enlassements de diversescouleurs, galons imitation de ces chainesqui les Itomains faisoient peindre, doreret argentrr, pour les rendre plus suppor-tables aux illustres malheurcux que lesort avoit reduit a les porter .”—Trail (filesMarques Xationales, Paris, 1739.

39 See p. 39.

From the G. IV. accounts the priceappears to have been half a crown anounce.

“ Eidem pro 2 li. 4 unc.’ fili Sororis,and 2s. 6 d. per unciam, 4 1. 10s.”—Eliz.34 & 35.

40 “ State Papers, Domestic,” Eliz. vol.lxxxiv. The sum total amounts to 4287.