HISTORY OF LACE.

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accounts, 9 “ twenty-five yards of fyne bone lace ” was required toedge a ruff, without counting the ground, composed either of lacesquares or cutwork. Queen Anne, his consort, pays 51. for herwrought ruff, for “ shewing ” which eighteen yards of fine lace arepurchased at 5s. 8d. 10

The ruffs of the City lady were kept down by the old sump-tuary law of Elizabeth.

“See, now, that you have not your ‘city ruff’ on, MistressSue,” says Mistress Simple, in the “ City Match.” 11

In 1G20, the yellow starch of Mrs. Turner, supposed to give arich hue to the lace and cutwork of which ruffs were “ built,” gavescandal to the clergy. The Dean of Westminster ordered no ladyor gentleman wearing yellow ruffs to be admitted into any pew inhis church ; but finding this “ ill taken,” and the king “ moved init,” he ate his own words, and declared it to be all a mistake. 12This fashion, again, gave great offence even in France. 13 Sincethe English 14 alliance, writes the “ Courtisane a la Mode,” 1025, 15“ cette mode Anglaise sera cause qu’il pourra advenir une chertosur le safran qui fera que les Bretons et les Poitevins seront con-traints de manger leur beurre blanc et non pas jaune, comnie ilssont accoutumes.” The Overbury murder (1013) and hanging

And other messengers; besides embroiderers.Jewellers, tire-women, semsters, feather men,Perfumers; whilst she feels not how the landDrops away, nor the aere3 melt; nor foreseesThe change, when the mercer has your woodsFor her velvets ; never weighs what her pride

Costs, Sir.”

0 “Second Acc. of Sir John Villiers,1617-8.” P. R. O.

“ 150 yards of fyne bone lace for sixextraordinary ruffs provided against hisMajesty's marriage, at 9s., 67s. lOd.”—Extraordinary Expenses, 1622-6. P. R. O.

’• “ State Papers, Dom.” Juc. I. vol. iii.No. 89. P. R. 0.

11 Jasper Mayne, 1670.

13 “ State Papers, Dom.” James I. vol.cxiii. No. 18.

13 We read that in 1574 the Venetianladies dyed their lace the colour ofsaffron. The fashion may thereforehave been derived from them.

14 “ He is of Englaud, by his yellowband.” —Notes from Blade Fryers, HenryFilzgejfery, 1617.

“ Now ten or twenty eggs will hardlysuffice to starch one of these yellowbandes .”—Bamaby Hick, The IrishHubbub , or the English Hue and Cry,1622.

Killigrew, in his play called “ TheParson’s Wedding,” published in 1664,alludes to the time when ‘ yellow starchand wheel verdingales were cried downand in •• The Blind Lady,” a play printedin 1661, a serving man says to the maid:“You had once better opinion of me,thongh now you wash every day yourbest handkerchief in yellow starch.”

13 “ La Courtisane h la Mode, selonl’Usage de la Cour de ce Temps.” Paris,1625.