284

HISTORY OF LACE.

1606 James had already given a licence to the Earl of Suffolk 24for the import of gold and silver lace. In 1621, alarmed by thegeneral complaints throughout the kingdom, 25 a proposition wasmade “ for the erection of an Office of Pomp, to promote homemanufactures,” and to repress pride by levying taxes on all articlesof luxury. 26 What became of the Pomp Office, we cannot pretendto say: the following year we are somewhat taken aback by apetition 27 from two Dutchmen, of Dort, showing “ that themanufacture of gold and silver thread, purle, etc., in England,”was “ a great waste of bullion,” the said Dutchmen being, we mayinfer, of opinion that it was more to their own advantage to importsuch articles themselves. After a lapse of three years, the petitionis granted. 28 In the midst of all this granting and rescinding ofmonopolies, we hear in the month of April 1623 how the decayof the bone-lace trade at Great Marlow caused great poverty. 29

Though the laces of Flanders and Italy were much patronisedby the court and high nobility, Queen Anne of Denmark appearsto have given some protection to the fabrics of the country.Poor Queen Anne! When, on the news of Elizabeth’s death,James hurried off to England, a correspondence took place betweenthe king and the English privy council regarding the queen’soutfit, James considering, and wisely—for the Scotch court wasalways out of elbows—that his wife’s wardrobe was totally unfitto be produced in London. To remedy the deficiency, the councilforwarded to the queen, by the hands of her newly named ladies,a quantity of Elizabeth’s old gowns and ruffs, wherewith to makea creditable appearance on her arrival in England. Elizabeth haddied at the age of seventy, wizened, decayed, and yellow—Anne,

proclamation, 1639, dated from his manourof York .”—Vemey Papers.

24 B. M. Bib. Lands. 172, No. 59.

25 1605. Sept. 27. Patent to Ric. Dikeand others, to make Venice gold andsilver thread for 21 years. “ State Papers,Dom.” Jas. I. vol. ix. 48.

1604. Dec. 30. Lease of the customson gold and silver thread. Ibid. vol. x.

1605. Feb. 2. The same. Ibid. vol.xii.

1611. May 21. Patent to Ric. Dikerenewed. Ibid. vol. lxiii. 9.

In the same year (Juno 30), wo finda re-grant to the Earl of Suffolk of themoiety of all seizures of Venice gold and

Bilver, formerly granted in the fifth yearof the king. Ibid. vol. lxiv. 66.

In 1622, a lease on the customs ongold and silver thread lace is given toSir Edward Villiers. Ibid. vol. exxxii.34.

22 Ibid. vol. cxxi. 64.

21 Ibid. vol. exxxii. 34.

28 In 1624, King James renews hisprohibition against the manufacture of“gold purles,” as tending to the con-sumption of the coin and bullion of thekingdom. “ Fcedera,” vol. xvii. p. 605.

29 Petition, April 8, 1623. “ State

Papers,” vol. oxlii. 44. See Chap. XXX.