JAMES I.

287

After a time—epoch of the Spanish marriage 35 —the ruff gaveway to the “ falling band,” so familiar to us in the portraits ofKubens and Vandyke.

“ There is such a deal of pinning these ruffs, when a fine cleanfall is worth them all,” says the “ Malcontent.” “ If you shouldchance to take a nap in the afternoon, your falling band requiresno poking-stick to recover it.” 36 Cutwork still continued in highfavour; it was worn on every article of linen, from the richlywrought collar to the nightcap. The Medicean ruff or gorget ofthe Countess of Pembroke (“ Sidney’s sister, Pembroke’s mother ”),with its elaborate border of swans (Fig. 114), is a good illustrationof the fashion of her time.

Among the early entries of Prince Charles, we have fournightcaps of cutwork, 7 Z ., 37 for making two of which for his high-ness, garnished with gold and silver lace, Patrick Burke receives157.; 38 but these modest entries are quite put to shame by thoseof his royal father, who, for ten yards of needlework lace “ pro leedginge” of his “galiriculis vulgo nightcaps,” pays lliZ. 13s. Id . 39Well might the Water Poet exclaim—

“ A nightcap is a garment of Iiigh state." “

When Queen Anne died, in 1619, we have an elaborate accountof her funeral, 41 and of the sum paid to Dorothy Speckart foidressing a hearse effigy with a large veil, wired and edged withpeak lace and lawn, curiously cut in flowers, Ac. Laced linen,however, was already discarded in mourning attire, for we find in

enumerate. Among them we would in-stance that of Alice, Countess of Derby,died 1636, in Hareheld Church, Middle-sex, in whicli the lace is very carefullysculptured. (Communicated by Mr. AlbertHartshorn.)

“ 1620-1. We have entries of “ fallingbands” of good cambric, edged withbeautiful bone lace, two dozen stitchedand shagged, and cutwork nightcaps,purchased for James I., in the sameaccount, with 28s. for “ one load of hayto stuff the woolsacks for the ParliamentHouse.”— G. 11'. Acc. Jac. I. 18 to 19.

In the same year, 1620, an Englishcompany exported a large quantity ofgold and silver lace to India, for theKing of Golconda.

*• “ Malcontent,” 1600.

81 Extraordinary Expenses, 1622-6.P. R. O.

58 “2nd Acc. of Sir J. Villiers, 1017-18.” P.R.O.

88 Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 6 to 7.

« Taylor, 1640

“The beau would fain sicknessTo shew his nightcap flue,

And his wrought pillow oversprea 1with lawn.”

Davies, Epigrams.

*> “ Acc. of Sir Lyom 11 Crnnficld (nowEarl of Middlesex), late Master of theGreat Wardrobe, touching the funeralof Queen Anne, who dial 2nd March1018” (i.e. 1019, K. S.). P. R. O.