290

HISTORY OF LACE.

noble English lady depicted by Hollar," must now lay aside herwliisk, edged with broad lace of needle point, and no longer hie toSt. Martin’s for lace : 72 she must content herself with a plain attire.

“ Sempsters with ruffs and cuffs, and quoifs and caules,

And falls,” 73

must be dismissed. Smocks of three pounds a piece , 74 wroughtsmocks , 75 are no longer worn by all—much less those “ seam’dthro’ with cutwork .” 76 “ Lace to her smocks, broad seaminglaces,” 77 which, groans one of the Puritan writers, “ is horrible tothink of.”

The ruff and cuffs of Flanders, gold lace cutwork and silverlace of curie , 78 needle point, and fine gartering with blown roses , 79are now suppressed under Puritan rule.

The “ fop, ” whom Henry Fitz-Geoffrey describes as having

“An attractive lace

And whalebone bodies for the better grace,”

must now think twice before he wears it . 80

The officer, whom the poor soldier apostrophises as shining—

“ One blaze of plate about you, which puts outOur eyes when we march ’gainst the sunne, and armes youCompleatly with your own gold lace, which isLaid on so thick, that your own trimmings doeRender you engine proof, without more arms ”— 81

" “ Omatus Muliebris Anglicanus,”1G45.

72 “ You must to the Pawn (Exchange)to buy lawn, to St. Martin for lace.”—11 'estward Ho, 1607.

“ A copper lace called St. Martin’s

lace.”— Strype.

73 Taylor, “Whip of Pride,” 1610.

71 In “Eastward Ho,” 1605, proudGertrude says; “Smocks of three pounda smock, are to be born with all.”

75 “Bartholomew Fair,” 1614.

78 “ She shewed me gowns and head tires,

Embroidered waistcoats, smocks sr am’d thro’ with outworks.”

Beaumont and Fletcher, Four Plays in One, 1647.

77 “ Who would ha’ thought a woman so well harness’d,

Or rather well caparison’d, indeed,

That wears such petticoats, and lace to her smocks,

Broad seaming laces.”

Ben Jonson, The Devil is an Ass, 1616.

A suite of russet “laced all over with silver curie lace.” — Expenses ofBobt. Sidney, Earl of Leicester, temp. Chas. I.

79 u This comes of wearingScarlet, gold lace and outworks; your fine garteringWith your fine blown roses.” The Devil is an Ass.

80 “Notes from Black Fryers.” 81 Jasper Maync, “Amorous War,” 1659.