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.slips used by the clergy. The laced cravat now introduced con-tinued in fashion until about the year 1735. 7
It was at its height when Pepys writes in his diary: “ Lord’sHay, Oct. 19, 1662. Put on my new lace band, and so neat it isthat I am resolved my great expense shall be lace bands, and itwill set off anything else the more.” The band was edged withthe broadest lace. In the “ Newes,” 1663, January 7, we find:“ Lost, a laced band, the lace a quarter of a yard deep, and theband marked in the stock with a 15.”
Mrs. Pepys—more thrifty soul—“ wears her green petticoat ofFlorence satin, with white and black gimp lace of her own puttingon (making), which is very pretty.”
The custom, already common in France, of ladies making theirown lace, excites the ire of the writer of “ Britannia Languens,” inhis “ Discourse upon Trade.” 8 “ The manfacture of linen,” 9 hesays, “ was once the huswifery of English ladies, gentlewomen, andother women ; ” now “ the huswifery women of England employthemselves in making an ill sort of lace, which serves no nationalor natural necessity.” 10
The days of Puritan simplicity were at an end.
“ Inbtead of homespun coifs were seenGood pinners edged with Colberteen.” 11
The laced cravat succeeded the falling collar. Lace hand-kerchiefs 12 were the fashion, and
“ Gloves laced and trimmed as fine as Nell’s.” 13
7 When it was replaced by a blackribbon and a bow.
* London, ItiSO.
* Authors, however, disagree like therest of the world. In a tract called“ The Ancient Trades Decayed RepaiiedAgain,” by Sir Roger L’Estrange (1G7S),we read : “ Nay, if the materials used in atrade be not of the growth of Englandyet, if the trade bo to employ the poor,we should have it bought without money,and brought to us from beyond the seaswhere it is marie as ‘ Bone lace.’ ”
10 As early as 20th September 1675,Mrs. Rebecca Croxton advertises in the
“ London Gazette,” informing the worldin general that she has “lately found outa new way of making Point dc Venise,
and has obtained a patent from his
Majesty for making the same; that she
is now settled at Hammersmith, overagainst Lord Chief Justice Neville’shouse, where such as are willing to beinstructed will find her all days saveTuesdays, on which day she will hespoken to at the Duke’s Head, Hen-rietta Street, Covent Garden.”
11 Swift, “ Baucis and Philemon.”
12 “Intelligencer,” 1665, June5: “Lost,six handkerchers wrapt up in a brownpaper, two laced, one point-laced set ontiffany; the two laced ones had beenworn, the other four new'.”
“London Gazette,” 1672, Dec. 5-.0;“ Lost, a lawn pocket handkercher with abroad hem, laced round with a fine Pointlace about four fingers broad, marked withan R in red silk.”
13 Evelyn. It was the custom, at amaiden nssize, to present the judge with