304
HISTORY OF LACE.
JAMES II.
“ To know the age and pedigreesOf points of Flanders and Venise.”
Hudibras.
The reign of James II., short and troubled, brought but littlechange in the fashion of the day.
Charles II., in the last year of his reign, spends 20/. 12s. for anew cravat to be worn “ on the birthday of his dear brother," 24and James expends 29/. upon one of Venice point to appear in onthat of his queen. Frequent entries of lace for the attendants ofthe Chapel lloyal form items in the royal wardrobe accounts.
Ruffles, night-rails, and cravats of point d’Espagne and deVenise now figure in gazettes, 25 but “ Flanders lace is still inhigh estimation,’’ writes somebody, in 1668, “and even fans aremade of it.”
Then James If. fled, and years after we find him dying at Saint-Germain in—a laced nightcap. “ This cap was called a ‘ toquet,’and put on when the king was in extremis, as a compliment toLouis XIV.” “It was the court etiquette for all the Royals,”writes Madame, in her “ Memoirs,” “ to die with a nightcap on."The toquet of King James may still be seen by the curious, adorn-ing a wax model of the king’s head, preserved as a relic in theMuseum of Dunkirk. 26
Out of mingled gratitude, we suppose, for the hospitality shehad received at the French court, and the protection of the angels,
24 Gt. \V. A. Cor. II. 35-36 = 1683-4.
25 “ Gazette,” July 20, 1682. Lost, aportmanteau full of women’s clothes,among which are enumerated “ two pairsof Point d’Espigne ruffles, a laced nightrail and waistcoat, a pair of Point deVenise ruffles, a black laced scarf,” &c.—Miilcolm’s Anecdotes of London.
The lace of James IP’s cravats andruffles are of point de Venise.
“ Sex prselant cravatts delacinia Vene-tinruin ” aro charged 141Z., and 9 yardslace, for six more cravats, 45Z.
3 Z. 10s. for the cravat of Venice laceto wear on tl.e day of his coronation,&c. G. \V. A Jac. If. 1685-6.
26 A writer in the “ Gentleman’sMagazine” (October 1745) mentions:“In the parlour of the monastery of1-nglish Benedictines at Paris, I wasshown the mask of the king’s face, takenoff immediately after he was dead,together with the fine laced nightcap hedied in.” The cap at Dunkirk is trimmedwith Flemish lace (old Mechlin). It musthave passed from Paris to the convent ofEnglish Benedictines at Dunkirk, wholeft that city in 1793. There is no recordhow it became deposited in the Museum.Communicated by M. de la Forbade, Con-servator of the Museum, Dunkirk.