306
HISTORY OF LACE.
the dress covered with lace frills and flounces—“ every part ofthe garment in curl ”—caused a lady, says the “ Spectator,” toresemble “ a Friesland hen.” 32
Never yet were such sums expended on lace as in the days ofWilliam and Mary. The lace bill of the queen, signed by LadyDerby, mistress of the robes, for the year 1694, amounts to theenormous sum of 19187. 33 Among the most extravagant entrieswe find:—
£.
s.
d.
21 yards of lace for 12 pillow beres, at 52s.
54
12
0
16 yards of lace for 2 toylights (toilets), at 127.
192
0
0
24 yards for 6 handkerchiefs, at 47. 10s.
108
0
0
30 yards for 6 night shifts, at 62s. .
93
0
0
6 yards for 2 combing cloths, at 147.
84
0
0
34 yards for a do. do. at 177.
53
2
6
34 do. at 147. ......
42
0
0
An apron of lace ......
17
0
0
None of the lace furnished by Mr. Bampton, thread lace pro-vider and milliner to the court, for the queen’s engageantes andruffles, however, seems to have exceeded 57. 10s. the yard. Thereis little new in this account. The lace is entered as scalloped, 34ruffled, “ loopt; ” lace “ purle” 35 still lingers on ; catgut, too, ap-pears for the first time, 36 as well as raised point, 37 and needlework. 38
33 “Spectator,” No. 129, 1711.
“ Lost, from behind a Hackney coach,Lombard Street, a grounded lace nightrail .”—London Gazette , 1695, Aug. 8.
“ Lost, two loopt lace Pinners and apair of double laced ruffles, bundled uptogether.”— Ibid. 1697, Jan. 6-10.
“Taken out of two boxes in Mr.Lrouth’s waggon... six cards of piece lacelooped and purled, scolopt heads to mostof them ... a fine Flanders lace headand ruffles, groundwork set on a wier,”&c.— Ibid. 1698, April 11-14.
“ Furbelows are not confined to scarfs,but they must have furhelow’d gownsand furbelow’d petticoats, and furbelow’daprons; and, as I have heard, furbelow’dsmocks too.”— Pleasant Art of Money-catching, 1730.
33 U. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
34 “ Bought of John Bishop & Jer.Peirie, att y' Golden Ball, in LudgateHill, 26 April, 1693;
“ 3 yards 1 /2 of Rich silver rufl’d scol-lop lace falbala, with a Rich broad silverTire Orris at the head, at 7s. 3d. a varil,251. Os. 3d.
“8 yards of broad scolloppeil threadlace, at 25s.
“3 yards rich Paigning (?) Lace,48s. 8 d., 81. 14s.”
35 “ 9 1/2 Fine purle to set on the pin-ner, at 3s.”
38 “ 5 3/4 of fine broad eattgutt border,at 20s.”
37 “ 1 yard 7/16 Raised Point to puton the top of a pair of sleeveB, at 30s."
33 “8 yards of Broad Needlework Lace,at 308.”