HISTORY OF LACE.

312

had but four fine laced Brussels heads, two loopt and two grounded,two extremely fine point ones, with ruffles and lappets, six Frenchcaps and ruffles. 65

Two point lace cravats were considered as a full supply forany gentleman. Even young extravagant Lord Bedford, who, ateighteen years of age, found he could not spend le3S than 6000Z. ayear at Rome, when on the grand tour, only charges his mother,Rachel Lady Russell, with that number. 66

The high commode, 67 with its lace rising tier upon tier, whichmade the wits about town declare the ladies “ carried Bow steepleupon their heads, ” of a sudden collapsed in Queen Anne’s reign. Ithad shot up to a most extravagant height, “ insomuch that thefemale part of our species were much taller than the men. Weappeared,” says the “Spectator,” 68 “as grasshoppers beforethem.” 59

In 1711, Anne forbade the entry of gold and silver lace, 60 ofwhich the consumption had become most preposterous, 61 underpain of forfeiture and the fine of 100?. Ladies wore even cherry-coloured stays trimmed with the forbidden fabric. 62 The point ofSpain had the preference over thread lace for state garments,heads and ruffles excepted; and as late as 1763, when the DowagerLady Effingham was robbed of her coronation robes, among thewonderful finery detailed there is no mention of thread lace.

The commerce of Flanders, notwithstanding the French taste,seemed now on a comfortable footing. “ The Flanderkins, ’’writesthe “British Merchant,” in 1713,“are gone off from wool, whichwe have got, to lace and linen. ... We have learned better, Ihope, by our unsuccessful attempt to prohibit the Flanders laces,which made the Flemings retaliate upon us, and lessened our

“ “ Letters of the Countess of Hartfordto the Countess of Pomfret,” 1740.

“ “ Memoirs of Lady R. Russell.”

57 “My high commode, my damaskgown,

My lactd shoes of Spanishleather.”

D’Urfey, The Young Mai<Fs Portion.

M No. 98, 1711.

50 After fifteen years’ discontinuance itshot up again. Swift, on meeting theDuchess of Urafton, dining at Sir ThomasHunmer’s, thus attired, declared site

“ looked liked a mad woman.”

M Statutes at large.

*' In 1712, Mrs. Beale had stolen fromher “a green silk knit waistcoat withgold and silver flowers all over it, andabout 14 yards of gold and silver thicklace on it;” while another lady wasrobbed of “ a scarlet cloth coat so overlaidwith the same lace, it might have been ofany other colour.”— Malcolm’s Anecdotesof the Manners and Customs of London inthe Eighteenth Century.

•* “ Post Boy.” Nov. 15, 1709. Ar-ticles Lost.