362

HISTORY OF LACE.

The Flemish character of Fig. 139 is unmistakable ; the designof the flower vase being that of Angleterre a bride. If really ofEnglish make, we should place its fabrication at the beginning ofthe last century, for it was long before the Devonshire lace-makerscould rival in beauty the “ cordonnet” of the Flemish workers.

Fig. 140 is an example of the pattern worked into the reseauground, the favourite design of the butterfly and the acorn, alreadyfamiliar to us in the old point d’Angleterre of Fig. 52 (p. 99),and in the smock of Queen Elizabeth (Fig. 109, p. 273).

It is to its sprigs that ITonitonowes its great reputation. Likethe Brussels, they were made separately. At first they w'ereworked in with the pillow, afterwards “ applique ” or sewn on areseau ground.

Fin- m.

Old Honiton application.

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The pattern in Fig. 141 is sewn on the plain pillow ground,the making of which formed an extensive branch of the Honitontrade in the last century. This net was very beautiful and regular,but very expensive. It was made of the finest thread producedfrom Antwerp, the market price of which, in 1790, was 701. perpound ; 16 and an old lace-maker told the author her father had,during the war, paid a hundred guineas a pound to the smugglersfor this highly prized and then almost unattainable commodity.

Nor were the lace-worker’s gains less remunerative. Shewould receive as much as eighteen shillings a yard for the work-

“ Mrs. Abordein, of Honiton, informs us her father has often paid ninety-fiveguineas per pound for the thread at Antwerp.