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HISTORY OF LACE.

lesquelles y ha un lyon assailant un sanglier with fifty-two fishes,all of divers sorts—giving good proofs of the poor prisoner’sindustry. As to the designs after nature, with all respect to thememory of Queen Mary, the lions, cocks, and fishes of the six-teenth century which have come under our notice require astudent of mediaeval needlework, rather than a naturalist, to pro-nounce upon their identity.

James YI. of Scotland, reared in a hotbed of Calvinism, had notthe means, even if he had the inclination, to indulge in muchluxury in dress. Certain necessary entries of “ braid pasmentis ”of gold, “ gold clinquant,” “ braid pasmentis,” “ cramoisi,” for theornamenting of “ clokkis,” “ coittis,” “ breikis,” and “roobes ” of theking, with “ Twa unce and ane half pasmentis of gold and silverto werk the headis of the fokkis,” make up the amount of expensesanctioned for the royal wedding ; 21 while “ 34 ells braid pasmentis ”of gold to trim a robe for “ his Majesties darrest bedfellow theQuene for her coronation,” 22 gives but a poor idea of the luxuryof the Scottish court.

Various enactments 23 were passed during the reign ofJames VI. against “ unnecessary sumptuousness in men’s apparel,”by which no one except noblemen, lords of session, prelates, &c.were allowed to wear silver or gold lace. Provosts were permittedto wear silk, but no “ lace pearlin ” or “ pasmenterie,” only a“ watling silk lace ” on the seams. 24 No one but the above sameprivileged persons were to have pearlin on their ruffles, “ sarkis,”napkins, and “ sokkis,” and that pearlin to be made in the kingdomof Scotland. This act, dated 1621, is the first mention we havefound of Scottish-made lace.

James VI. having granted to one James 1’annatyne of Leitha patent for the “ importing of foraine pearlin ” into the country,in consequence of great complaint of the embroiderers in 1639,this patent is rescinded, and the king forbids the entry of all“ foraine pearlin.”

The word lace does not exist in the Scotch language. “ Pearlin ”is the term used in old documents, defined in the dictionaries to

21 “ Marriage Expenses of James VI.,1589.” Published by the BannatyneClub.

22 “ Accounts of the Great Chamber-lain of Scotland, 1590.” BannatyneClub.

23 In 1581, 1597, and 1021.

24 The same privilege was extended totheir wives, their eldest sons with theirwives, and their eldest daughters, butnot to the younger children.