378

HISTORY OF LACE.

And in swell a state matters continued till the Jacobites,going and coming from Saint-Germain, introduced Frenchfashions and luxuries as yet unheard of in the then aristocraticCanongate.

It sounds strange to a traveller, as he wanders among thesenow deserted closes of Edinburgh, to read of the gay doings andof the grand people who, in the last century, dwelt within thesepoor-looking abodes. A difficult matter it must have been to theJacobite beauties, whose hoop (from 1725-8) measured nine yardsin circumference, to mount the narrow winding staircases of theirdwellings ; and this very difficulty gave rise to a luxury of under-clothing almost unknown in England or elsewhere. Every ladywore a petticoat trimmed with the richest point lace, which, whenher hooped dress was raised, lay exhibited to her admiring follower.Nor did this terminate with the jupe ; independent of

“ Twa lappcls at her head, that flaunted gallantlie,”

ladies extended the luxury to finely laced garters.

In 1720, the bubble company “for the trading in Flanderslaces ” appears advertised in the Scotch papers in large andattractive letters. We strongly doubt, however, it having gainedany shareholders among the prudent population of Auld lleekie.

The prohibition of iace made in the dominions of the Frenchking 29 was a boon to the Jacobites, and many a lady, and gentle-man too, became wondrous loyal to the exiled family, bribed by apacket from Saint-Germain. In the first year of George II., saysthe “ Gazette,” 30 a parcel of rich lace was secretly brought to theDuke of Devonshire, by a mistake in the similarity of the title.On being opened, hidden among the folds, was found a miniatureportrait of the Pretender, set round with large diamonds. Thepacket was addressed to a noble lord high in office, one of themost zealous converts to loyalty. 31

23 Seep. 311.

30 “ Edinburgh Advertiser,” 1764.

31 1745. The following description ofLady Lovat, wife of the rebel Simon, is acharming picture of a Scotch gentle-woman of the last century:—

“ When at home her dress was a redsilk gown witli ruffled cuffs and sleevespuckered like a mun’s shirt, a fly cap oflace encircling her head, with a mob cap

laid across it, falling down on her cheeks;her hair dressed and powdered; a lacohandkerchief round the neck and bosom(termed by the Scotch a Sefong); a whiteapron edged with lace. . . . Any onewho saw her sitting on her chair, so neat,fresh, and clean, would have taken herfor a queen in wax-work, placed in aglass case .”—Heart of Midlothian.

Sir Walter Scott describes the dressing-