446

HISTORY OF LACE.

lever, 398; tricot dentelle made in Franco,399; Calais, 400; Lyons silk net, 401;illusion, ib.; Washer of Brussels invents“ Brussels net,” ib.

Bohemian lace, see Germany.

Bone lace, pillow lace, why so called, 251;term occurs frequently in great wardrobeaccounts, 60.

Boots, lace-trimmed, of court of Louis XIV.and of Cinq-Mars, 121; trimmed withGenoa point, 124.

Brazil, its lace manufacture, 85.

Bretagne, no record of lace manufacture,223 ; laco mentioned in legend of Blue-beard, and in ballads, ib.; the lace-trimmed wedding dress, ib.

Bride, term explained, 26.

Bruges, its “ point duchesse,” 110.

Brussels lace, 92; called point d’Angleterre,93 ; the best made in Brussels, 94 ; fine-ness of thread, ib.; its costliness, 95;ground,bride, and reseau, ib.; reseau madeby needle and on pillow, 96; flowers,needle and plat, or pillow, ib.; groundedBrussels, 97; its complicated manufac-ture, ib. ; division of labour, ib.; pointgaze', 99; cost of a Brussels flounco, 101 ;Brussels of Queen Anne, 311.

Brussels net, see Bobbin-net.

Buckingham, petition of Great Marlow,338; manufacture mentioned by Fuller,Cowper, Lysons, and Defoe, 339; New-port Pagnel celebrated in last century,340; trolly lace, 342 ; black lace, 350.

Burano lace, 47.

Burato, term explained, 39.

Burgoyne or burgoin, lace head-dress ofcourt of Louis XIV., 176; and cap ofNormandy peasant, 186.

Burgundy lace, 220.

Caen celebrated for its white blonde,193.

Calendar of State Papers in Public RecordOffice, passim.

Campane, lace so called, 28.

Canons, silver lace, of James I., 50 ; pointde France of Louis XIV., 126; their cost-liness, 127.

Cap, fashion for royalty to die in a laco-trimmed cap, 304 ; that of James II. pre-served at Dunkirk, ib.

Ceylon, its laco resembles Maltese, 79.

Champagne,point de Sedan much esteemed,208; Sedan collars of Charles I., ib.

Chansons h toile, 5.

Chantilly, manufacture established byDuchess of Longueville, 183 ; old patternbook with orders for the court, ib.; itsfall, 185.

Christening suits, lace-trimmed, 273.

Colbert, protects Chatelain the Huguenot,80; establishes the laco manufacture ofpoint do France, 125, 128, 130; his lacecravat, 163; his point du Havre, 188.

Colberteen, lace so called, 303.

Courtrai, its Valenciennes lace, 110.

Cravat, origin of the name, 31; of CharlesII., 301; supply of point lace for agentleman’s cravat, 312.

Outwork, Chap. II.; of Queen Anne ofBohemia, 11; St. Cutlibert’s grave-clothes, ib.; adornB shirts, handkerchiefs,sheets, and pillow-cases, ib.; cap andapron of widow of John of Newbury, 13 ;pattern books, 14; how made, 16 ; fisher-man’s pall at Dieppe, 20; toile d’hon-heur at St. Lo, ib.; outwork of MadameGabrielle, 116; Holesom of Sweden, 246;outwork of Denmark, 243; of QueenElizabeth, 269; bearing cloth, 272; ruff’s,277; gorget of Countess of Pembroke,287.

Darned netting, see Lacis.

Denmark, manufacture introduced byQueen Elizabeth, sister of Charles V.,238; purchases of Christian IV. ib.; hislace-trimmed shirts, 239; sold by lacopostmen, ib.; character of the lace,210 .

Dentelle, term when first used, 23.

Devonshire, 354; Honiton, see; tombs of SirJ. and Lady Pole, 359; early manufac-ture, effigies of Lady Doddridge andBishop Stafford, ib.; trolly luce, see;Greek lace made, 369 ; Maltese at Wood-bury, ib.

Doll dressed as model of fashions as earlyas the fourteenth century, 140; Grandoand Petite Pandore of the H6tel Ram-bouillet, ib.; dolls sent to Vienna, Italy,and England, ib.; forbidden by Pitt,141; Henry IV. sends doll to Marie doMedicis, ib.; Venetian custom at fair ofSt. Mark, ib.

Dorsetshire, Blandford bone laco, see; Sher-borne, 354; Lyme Regis, ib.

Dresden lace mentioned by Anderson andMrs. Calderwood, 230; Anti Gallican