448

HISTORY OF LACE.

Flanders, West, its manufactories of Valen-ciennes at Ypres, see; Courtrni, see;called “ fnu.-ses Valenciennes,” 109;Bruges, see.

Florence early made point lace, 52; inFrench inventories, ib.; lace mado atSienna, ib.; elegy on a raised pointcollar by Firenzuola, 59; Henry VIII.grants leave to two Florentine merchantsto import gold and silver passementsinto England, ib.

Fontange, laced headdress so named, itsorigin, 154; in England called com-mode, 305 ; Madame do Se'vignc, 328.

France, wearing of lace under the Valois,114; the fraiso or ruff of Henry III. andhis mignons, 115; Reine Margot'sspoon, ib.; sumptuary edicts, 116; in-ventory of Madame Gabrielle, 117; col-leretto of Mary do Modicis, 118; ex-travagance in lace on accession of LouisXIII., ib.; lace-trimmed boots of Cinq-Mars, 120; engravings of AbrahamBossc, 121; king’s effigy in Genoa point,123; la-es of the Fronde, 124; couitiersof the regency, ib.; point lace cuffs ofAnne of Austria, ib.; correspondenceon subject of lace between Mazarin andColbert, 125; laced-trimmed “canons” ofLouis XIV., 120 ; useless edicts, ib.;Colbert develops the lace industry inFrance, 128; point do France adoptedby the court, 131; point cuffs andruffles given to Siamese ambassadors,132 ; fete at Marly, and presents of lace,133; Madame de Maintenon establishesa lace manufacture, ib.; ladies makepoint lace, ib.; the fontanges head-dress, 134; origin of the Steinkirkcravat, 136; lace ruffles culled “enga-geantes,” ib.; the “e'quipage do bain” inpoint de France, 137; Louis XV., ageof ruffles and jubots, 142 ; point “ garni-tures de lit,” 145; Cardinal Fleury’sobservation, 14G; expenso of lace introusseaux, ib.; Marie-Antoinette dis-cards point lace, 150; toilette of Made-moiselle Dutlie, ib.; lace of the Rohanfamily, and of Monseigneur d’Auvergne,152; French Revolution fatal to lace,153; revives under Napoleon I., 154 ;“ reception ” of Madame Re'camier, 155 ;Duchesse d'Abranths describes the laceof her trousseau, 156; bobbin-net super-sedes lace for a time, 157.

GARTEits bound witli gold lace, 120; ofQueen Elizabeth, 266.

Gas used for clearing machine-made lace,398.

Genoa, 56 ; gold of Jeane in early statutes,ib.; Genoa made pillow lace, ib.; Genoalace in general use in seventeenth cen-tury, 57; Queen Christina’sneckerchief ofGenoa point, ib.; extent of manufacturealong the Riviera, 59; the laco-workersof Sta. Margherita, ib.; patterns foundin the church, 60; present state of thelace manufacture, 61; lace of Albissolu,62; parchment lace patterns used asbinding of low books, ib.; aloe fibre lace,63; Genoa macramt, or fringed towels,64; fringed table-cloth in painting ofPaul Veronese, ib.; purchases by Maza-rin, 124; boot tops trimmed with Genoapoint, ib.

Germany—Saxony, see; Hamburg receivesProtestant refugees, 232; Hamburgpoint, ib.; Lord Nelson buys Hamburglace, ib.; Frederic William receives theemigrants at Berlin, ib.; called “man-gours d’haricots,” ib.; Hanover lace,ib.; Leipzig, Anspaeh, and Elberfeldmake gold and silver" lace, ib.; Hun-garian point made at Halle, 233; Leipzigstudents, ib.; Sibmacher’s im del bookpublish d at Nuremberg, ib. ; its mu-seum, 234 ; devices of the passementiers,ib.; collection of lace at Bamberg, 235 ;lace of the Bohemian Erzgebirge, ib.;Austria, ib.

Ghent, its luce manufactures, 110; theBe'guinage, ib.; report of Sir J. Sinclair,ib.

Gibbons, Grinling, his carved lace collars,329.

Gloves, lace-trimmed, of Anne Basset,256; of Brussels lace at maiden assize,301.

Goderonne'o, term explained, 14, 115.

Gold and silver lace made at Arras, see;Aurillac, see; Genoa, 56 ; Holland, see ;Lyons, 222 ; rezeuille serviettes of Mar-garet of Austria, 19; Milan, see; Paris,182 ; Spain, 80 ; Sweden, 244 ; Turki y,see; Venice, see; Zurich, 235.

Grammont, its black lace, 111.

Grille, French term explained, 26, 97.

Gueuse, lace so called, 28.

Guipure, original meaning of the term, 25;guiper, ib.