these two, of course, confines the weft-thread first thrown. The weaver then jerks back the shuttle, leavinganother weft-thread behind, to be pressed up and confined in the same manner as the first; and thus byalternately pressing down the loops, and throwing the shuttle from side to side, the ordinary operation ofweaving is carried on in India .
Pattern weaving, it must be evident, is produced by making a difference either in colour or texture, orin both, between the warp and the weft-threads, and causing one or other to predominate on the surface ofthe fabric. This is effected by increasing the number of heckles, and attaching the warp-threads to them inthe succession necessary to vary the pattern, by allowing the shuttle at every throw to pass over and underthe number only previously arranged to produce the required variation of pattern. As the weaver, wdiensingle-handed, can only work the heckles by the pressure of his feet, the range of patterns producible byone workman only must of course be limited. Any amount of elaboration may, however, be attained byincreasing the number of heckles, and employing an assistant (the drawboy of the old English draw-loom)to elevate or depress them, in regular succession, between the throws of the shuttle.
When we reflect on the richness and beauty of patterns such as those we engrave, and generally on thevariety and perfection with which every fabric, from the common cottons of Bengal to the Kincobs andtissues of Benares, the muslin of Dacca and the shawls of Cashmere , are executed throughout the whole of theIndian empire, we cannot fail to be impressed with admiration at the patience, ingenuity, and dexterity, withwhich the natives are enabled to produce such extraordinary results, with such wonderfully simple machinery.
The Benares cloth of gold has long been celebrated, and as large quantities are purchased by the wealthierpilgrims who visit the holy city from every part of India , its reputation has spread over the wdiole of thecontinent. Some of the richest and most beautiful of the Benares fabrics were exhibited by Baboo DeoNaryan and Gopinauth Debersaad.
The largest and most important of the patterns given in Plate XXIV. was produced at Ahmedabad , andis a portion of a square brocade which was contributed to the Exhibition by Mr. Copland, of London .
Up to the beginning of the eighteenth century, Ahmedabad was the centre of the prosperity whichreigned in the province of Guzzerat, in the district of Bombay, under the old Mohammedan sway. Themonuments, rich buildings, and commerce of the city, having been famous throughout the province of whichit w : as the capital. On falling into the hands of the Mahrattas, who retained dominion over it until thebeginning of the nineteenth century, it sunk into sad tribulation. The extortionate taxes and duties leviedby the Mahratta chieftains almost entirely destroyed its manufacturing capabilities and its commercial relations.In 1818, when Ahmedabad came into the possession of the East India Company , successful efforts weremade to foster its trade, and to develope its resources. Under the secure and just dominion of the Company,the manufacturer and merchant have been enabled to reanimate and to take advantage of the traditions ofskill and beauty which had lingered in the old families, and there is little doubt that the charming patternw r e engrave is but a revival of one of the old Mohammedan designs of the palmy days of the city.
We gather from the Official Illustrated Catalogue of the Exhibition a few particulars concerning theactual condition of the manufactures of Ahmedabad . It appears that the most important are three in number :silk and gold brocade, ribbons, and paper. Of the former, we learn that the constituent materials are derived,—the silk from China, Bassora, and Calcutta, the gold and silver thread from Ahmedabad itself, and the cochinealfrom England. It is estimated that not less than 40,000 rupees’ worth of goods are annually consumed in thecity and its surrounding district, and at least 300,000 rupees’ worth are manufactured for the export trade.These goods are consigned, in India, to Bombay, Baroda, Poona, Gwalior, Hydrabad , and Rajpootana; andout of India, to Sindh, Cabool, Arabia, Persia, and China .
Of the ribbon trade, we learn that the raw silk is piocuied fiom China the dye-stuffs (with the
exception of indigo, the produce of Kandeish) through Bombay; that no less than 20,000 rupees’ worth are
consumed in the city and its district; and that 100,000 rupees worth are annually forwarded to Baroda,Bombay, Rajpootana, Gwalior , and all parts of Guzzerat.
Of the paper trade, it appears that 20,000 rupees’ worth are annually consigned to Bombay, and 15,000
to Baroda. The paper is made from hemp “ tant,” by means of 250 mills or pounding machines, worked by
the feet of the inhabitants, of whom no less than 2000 are employed daily in the manufacture.