PLATE XXVIII.
As a specimen of the harmonious blending of deep-toned colours, and an agreeable departure from thesomewhat too inevitable “ tail ’’-pattern of three-fourths of the shawl fabrics woven at the present day, we feelconfident that the merits of the object engraved will be immediately recognised. However beautiful in executionmany of the drawings for shawls contributed to the Great Exhibition, by French and English artists, may havebeen, it was impossible not to have been struck in them by the absence of many of the excellencies whichcharacterise the majority of the Oriental productions.
The valley of Cashmere — the ancient Caspira — has so long been celebrated for its shawls, that themanufacture of that beautiful article of costume, so highly esteemed by Oriental nations, is by some writersbelieved to have originated there. Possessing unequalled fineness, delicacy, and warmth, the shawls of Cashmere have always maintained the highest estimation in every market of the world; and the choicest examples ofthem have realised, as is well known, almost incredible prices. Although numerous authors have dwelt indetail upon the subject of the manufactures of Cashmere , considerable difficulty would be experienced by any onewho, by going through their writings, should attempt the task of realising for himself a clear idea upon thesubject. This difficulty would mainly arise from the fact that he would find his authorities somewhat at variance.The occasional misapplication of a technical term, and the frequently evident want of a right apprehension ofthe mechanism of the loom, serve to render the meaning of many passages so questionable or obscure as totend practically to confusion, rather than to explanation. It is, therefore, with some mistrust that we proceedto offer the following remarks, which have for the most part been condensed from the authorities given beneath*
It must be manifest that every successful production of art-manufacture must exhibit a satisfactoryconjunction of three ingredients, — good and fine raw material,—tasteful design,—and skilful and finishedexecution. In noticing Cashmere shawl fabrication, one of the highest orders of art-manufacture, we shall,therefore, dwell upon each of those ingredients in succession, taking up the two former in the present article,and the latter on a subsequent occasion.
The wool of which the shawls of Cashmere are composed is the cotton-like down, or inner hair, of aspecies of goat which abounds in the vast plains of Thibet—a cold, dry table-land to the east of Cashmere .The wool which is manufactured in Cashmere into woven fabrics is of two kinds: pashm shal, or shawl-wool,the produce of the tame goat; and asali tas, or the fleece of the wild goat, the wild sheep, and otheranimals, including the yak, a species of ox, and even the dog of Thibet . Attempts have been often made torival the shawls of Cashmere , but even when the genuine shawl-wool has been employed, these effortshave not succeeded. The most remarkable endeavours of this nature have been made in various districtsof the continent of India , but with what success the following passage from Mr. M Culloch will testify:
“ It must be admitted,” says he, “ that shawls have nowhere been made that can come, as respects quality,into successful competition with those of Cashmere. The manufacture has been established at Delhi and Lahore for some years; but notwithstanding it is carried on by native Cashmerians, and although the material employed
* M'Culloch’s “Dictionary of Commerce,” article Shawls; Hamilton’s “Description of Hindostan, YigMoorcroft’s “ Travels in the Himalayan Provinces of Hindostan and the Punjab Thornton’s “ Gazetteer of theKarl Freiherr Von Hugel, “Kaschmir und das Reich der Siek.” 8°. Stuttgardt, 1840; “ Dictionnaire Universel du(Articles “ Chales et Laines ”); “ The Official Illustrated Catalogue,” &c. &c.