MACHINE-MADE LACE.
increased the trade of Nottingham ; and amongst these improvements none have been more important thanthe application of the Jacquard apparatus to the bobbin-net machine, so as to produce the most elaboratepatterns with unerring accuracy and perfection. This has been effected since 1839, under the patents ofMessrs. Vickers, Fisher, Crofts, Heathcoat, Birkin, and others; and machine-lace has been produced, bearingso close a resemblance to the most elaborate foreign grounds—Valenciennes, Mechlin, and Brussels —as todeceive even a practised eye. It would be almost impossible to enumerate the various improvements introducedby different local manufacturers: within the last fifty years hundreds of patents have been taken out; and everyseason still produces novelties, as various as the fluctuations of taste and fashion. It is gratifying to add thatthe School of Design established in the town is acknowledged by the best manufacturers to have had alreadya most beneficial influence.
As illustrating the effect of scientific improvements in reducing the price of the manufacture, we mayobserve that the kind of lace which was sold by Mr. Heathcoat for five guineas a-yard, soon after the dateof his patent, can now be equalled at eighteen pence a-yard; that quillings which sold in 1810 for fourshillings and sixpence, can now be excelled for three-halfpence a-yard, and that a certain width of net whichrealised seventeen pounds per piece twenty years ago is now sold for seven shillings.
In some information which he has kindly given us, Mr. Birkin describes, as follows, the different kindsof machines now in use:—1. The “Leavers” machine, so called after John Leavers, its inventor, applied to
the production of black-silk piece net, trimming laces, blondes in white and colours, cotton edgings,
linen laces in imitation of white pillow r lace, muslin edgings, fancy piece net, plait net in imitation ofValenciennes , &c. 2. The “pusher” machine, which has independent pushers, to propel the bobbins and carriages
from front to back, instead of pulling or hooking them, as in other arrangements. This is applied to theproduction of shawls, scarfs, flounces, &c. of superior quality, the pattern being afterwards worked by hand.3. The “circular” machine, so called from the bolts or combs on which the carriages pass being made circularinstead of straight, as in the straight-bolt machines originally constructed. By this machine imitations of theSwiss curtains, plain, spotted, and fancy nets, are made. 4. “ Traverse warp-machines,” so called from the warptraversing instead of the carriages, as in the circular and pusher machines. These are employed in makingspotted lace, blond edgings, and imitation thread laces. Mr. Birkin adds, that owing to the substitution ofwide for narrow machines the total number employed is less’ than it was in 1836. “There are now,” he
observes, “in full operation in Nottingham , 3200 bobbin-net machines, giving employment to 5556 men, and
6859 women and children,* and representing a capital of 1,329,445?. This is exclusive of buildings andrequisite machinery for working the same; and also of machinery and stock for silk-throwing, cotton-spinning, dyeing, bleaching, and dressing; of smiths, bobbin, carriage, guide, comb, and point makers; andof embroiderers, carders, menders, &c. The number of persons regularly employed in these branches of theNottingham trade is about 113,300; and the capital represented by the machinery, &c. may be estimated at1,616,500?. making a total capital of 2,965,945?. The annual amount, of business returns is about 2,300,000?.
Mr. Felkin, whose experience adds the weight of authority to his calculations, estimated in 1831 that theraw material (cotton and silk) used annually for Nottingham lace was worth about 150,000?.; that thisvalue was increased to 540,000?. when spun into thread; and that the final value, when manufactured into net,and ready for sale, was nearly 2,000,000?., or, including the wages of the embroiderers, more than 3,000,000?.
The black-silk lace trade of Nottingham , introduced within the last five years, has since greatly increased.The great bulk, however, of the bobbin-net is made of cotton, chiefly imported from the Manchester districts.
We had contemplated laying before our readers some account of the action of the bobbin-netmachine, one of the most elaborate and complicated of any employed in textile manufactures ; but, referringto the article already mentioned by Professor Barlow, we will merely quote the words of Mr. Birkin, whichclearly and briefly describe the principle on which it acts:—“ The bobbin-net machine is so called from thethread that makes the lace being partly supplied from bobbins, and partly from a warp placed perpendicularly.The bobbins being made to pass from front to back, and from back to front, while a lateral motion is imparted tothe warp-threads, thus causing one series of threads to wrap or twist round the other. Mr. Heathcoat’s originalmachine required sixty motions to complete one hole, the same being now made with six.
* The introduction of machines for “finishing,” or embroidering the goods, has led to a great diminution in the number of females, or “lacerunners,” employed in the manner described in our former article.