SPECIMEN OF POINT-LACE.
The manufacture once started in these great centres of traffic, its products were rapidly diffused over thewhole continent of Europe , and the ladies vied with one another in enriching their ruffs, tuckers, hangingsleeves, fardingales, and cuffs, with borders of this costly material, while the gentlemen wore it as an ornamentto their collars and manchettes, and even ultimately as a trimming to their boots.
Vast quantities were manufactured in the Italian convents for the service of the Church, not only by wayof rich hangings for the altar, but as apparels to the albs and surplices of the priests and deacons. Thepatterns of such laces were originally geometrical only; and it is curious, that among the earliest books,printed from wood-blocks in Italy , should have been collections of such designs for the use of nuns andembroiderers. These little works have now become of considerable rarity; some very interesting specimens were,however, lately in the possession of Mr. Dennistoun of Dennistoun. From 1550 to 1650 was the period duringwhich the Venetian and Genoese point-lace was held in the highest estimation throughout Europe , with theexception of Spain , in which country the execution of a similar fabric was carried to the utmost perfection.The Spanish lace, however, beautiful as it was, never obtained a commercial reputation. Toward the close ofthe sixteenth century the whole style of the patterns for point-lace changed from the geometrical into thescroll and shell-work style. A comparison of the lace displayed in the pictures of Honthorst , Sir AntonioMoore, Holbein, or Zuccaro, with that in those of Vandyke, Jansens, Mytens, or Sustermans , will at onceillustrate the peculiarities of the earlier and later styles of pattern. In France, Germany , and England, point-lace, although occasionally made, never reached the perfection it attained in Italy and Spain . The latest kindof really rich point-lace, however, that known as “Huguenot lace,” and worked by the unfortunate victims ofthe revocation of the edict of Nantes , has, perhaps, in extraordinary fineness of texture, never been rivalled.Of late years the manufacture of really fine point-lace, rivalling the old Spanish and Italian in beauty, hasbeen regarded as a lost art, and as such it would probably have continued to be held up to the present day,
but for the enterprise and talent of Miss Jane Clarke, whose exertions have been crowned with the greatest
success. The following is an extract from a communication with which that lady has kindly favoured us.She observes therein, that “the first idea I had of making such lace occurred to me in the year 1848,when a kind lady of Liverpool asked me to give her a design to have some lace made in Ireland , thepeople being in such great distress. I gave one, and when the lace was finished it was shown me, and Iwas so pleased with it that I gave orders for more. The work was so good that I felt assured still betterthings might be made. I then became acquainted with a Mrs. Bristow, a banker’s lady of Belfast , who
had charitably founded a school in that town, where the common muslin-work was made. I subsequently
agreed to take charge of this school for her, and on the 1st of April, 1850, it merged into the establishmentnow known as Miss Clarke’s lace-manufactory. On the occasion of the Exhibition I determined that realpoint should be made, and accordingly sent for the person who superintended my establishment, and havingshown her the lace I wished imitated, instructed her as to how it was to be made. By diligently trainingthe best hands, encouraging them with rewards, and constantly setting the best models before them, I amthankful to say I have arrived at the production of specimens which it has defied the discrimination of anybut the finest connoisseurs to discern from the best old work. It is a truly satisfactory reflection to me toknow in what comfort the revival of this art has placed many needlewomen, who were previously in greatdistress; and I am in great hopes that I may be enabled to maintain and ultimately increase my establish-ment.” v
Any comment upon this lady’s valuable exertions must appear superfluous after her simple statement offacts ; but it would be unfair to conclude this notice without alluding to the circumstance that, through herspirit and perseverance alone, several varieties of the richest and most novel garment-silks have been convertedinto staple manufactures in Spitalfields.