230

CALICb -PRINTING.

We may observe that a strong mordant, like No. 2, does not keep so well as one olmean density, such as No. 1. Too much mordant relatively to the demands of the worksshould therefore not he made at a time.

There are eight different styles of calico-printing, each requiring different methods ofmanipulation, and peculiar processes.

1. The madder'Style, to which the best chintses belong, in which the mordants are ap-plied to the white cloth with many precautions, and the colors are afterwards brought upin the dye-bath. These constitute permanent prints.

2. The padding or plaquage style, in which the whole surface of the calico is imbued witha mordant, upon which afterwards different colored figures may be raised, by the topicalapplication of other mordants joined to the action of the dye-bath.

3. The reserve style, where the white cloth is impressed with figures in resist paste,and is afterward subjected first to a cold dye, as the indigo vat, and then to a hot dye-bath, ivilh the effect of producing white or colored spots upon a blue ground.

4. The discharge or rongeant style, in which thickened acidulous matter, either pure ormixed with mordants, is imprinted in certain points upon the cloth, which is afterwardspadded with a dark-colored mordant, and then dyed, with the effect of showing brightfigures on a darkish ground.

5. China blues; a style resembling blue stone-ware, which requires very peculiartreatment.

6. The decoloring or enlevage style; by the topical application of chlorine or chromicacid to dyed goods. This is sometimes called a discharge.

7. Steam colors; a style in which a mixture of dye extracts and mordants is topical-ly applied to calico, while the chemical reaction which fixes the colors to the fibre is pro-duced by steam!

8. Spirit colors; produced by a mixture of dye extracts, and solution of tin, vulgarlycalled spirit by dyers. These colors are brilliant but fugitive.

I. The madder style; called by some dip colors. The true chints patterns belong to it;they have from 5 to 7 colors, several of which are grounded-in after the first dye hasbeen given in the madder bath.

In dyeing with madder, sumach, fustic, or quercitron, is sometimes added to the bath,in order to produce a variety of tints with the various mordants at one operation.

1. Suppose we wish to produce flowers or figures of any kind containing red, purple?and black colors, we may apply the three mordants at once, by the three-color cylindermachine, putting into the first trough acetate of alumina thickened; into the second, ace-tate of iron ; and intb the third, a mixture of the two; then drying in the air for a fewdays to fix the iron, dunging and dyeing up in a bath of madder and sumach. If we wishto procure the finest madder reds and pinks, besides the purple and blade, we must applyat first only the acetate of alumina of two densities, by two cylinders, dry, dung, and dyeup, in a madder bath. The mordants of irop liquor for the black, and of iron li<l u ° rmixed with the aluminous for purple, must be now grounded-iii by blocks, taking care toinsert these mordants into their precise spots: the goods being then dried with airing ‘ orseveral days, and next dunged, are dyed up in a bath of madder and sumach. They th usb‘e afterwards cleared by branning. See Bran, Dunging, and Maddkr.

2. Suppose we wish to produce yellow with red, pink, purple, and black ; in this cas

the second dye-bath should contain quercitron or fustic, and the spots intended to be y e "low should receive the acetate of alumina mordant. _ j

3. The mordant for a full red may be acetate of alumina, of spec. grav. 1-055, thickenwith starch, and tinged with Brazil-wood; that for a pale red or pink, the same at-sp 'gravity 1-014, thickened with gum; that for a middling red, the same at spec.

1-027, thickened with British gum; and for distinction’s sake, it may be tinged ye*with Persian berries. The mordant for black is a pyroligneous acetate of iron, of spe c ^ rgravity 1-04; for purple the same, diluted with six times its volume of water; ~

chocolate, that iron liquor mixed with acetate of alumina, in various proportions accing to the shade wanted. Sumach is mixed with the madder for ajl these colors exce P p ethe purple. The quantity of madder required varies according to the body co ' or „ o0 dsput upon the cloth, being from one pound per piece to three or even four. ^'^ ie ,^, u rs,must be entered when the copper is cool, be gradually heated during two or three n

up to ebullition, and sometimes boiled for a quarter of an hour; the pieces cE .)

while turned with a wince from the one side of the copper to the other. (See w Iyj, eI iThey are then washed and boiled in bran and water for ten or fifteen minutes.there is much white ground in the chints, they must be branned a second or even * jte,time, with alternate washing in the dash-wheel. To complete the purification of the jjythey are spread upon the grass for a few days ; or what is more expeditious, and eq ^good if delicately managed, they are winced for a few minutes in a weak soluchloride of lime. j, e ; n g

4. In the grounding-in for yellow, after madder reds, the aluminous moraan