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A dictionary of arts, manufactures, and mines : containing a clear exposition of their principles and practice / by Andrew Ure
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EMBROIDERY.

435

Employed, observing that the surface of the roller must be cut, so as to leave the patternor device elevated for embossing velvets, plain cloths, and papers; but for woollens thedevice must be excavated, that is, cut in recess.

The pattern of the embossing cylinder will, by the operation, be partially markedthrough the fabric on to the surface of the paper* bowl e; to obliterate which markstrom the surface of the bowl, as it revolves, the iron cylinder roller g is employed ; butas in the embossing of the same patterns on paper, a counter roller is required toProduce the pattern perfectly, the iron roller is in that case dispensed with, the impres-sion given to the paper bowl being required to be retained on its surface until the opera-bun is finished.

In this case the relative circumferences of the embossing cylinder, and of the paperbowl, must be exactly proportioned to each other; that is, the circumference of the bowl®ust be equal, exactly, to a given number of circumferences of the embossing cylinder,v ®ry accurately measured, in order to preserve a perfect register or coincidence, as theycontinue revolving between the pattern on the surface of the embossing cylinder, andthat indented into the surface of the paper bowl.

The axle of the paper bowl e, turns in brasses fitted into slots in the side frames, and“ may be raised by hand from its bearings when required, by a lever fc, extending infont. This lever is affixed to the end of a horizontal shaft L, l, crossing the machine? een in the figures, at the back of which shaft there are two segment levers r, p, to whichb e nt rods q, q., are attached, having hooks at their lower ends, passed under the axle ofbo bowl. At the reverse end of the shaft l, a ratchet-wheel r, is affixed, and a pall orp*ck mounted on the side of the frame takes into the teeth of the wheel r, and thereby‘olds up the paper bowl when required.

When the iron roller g, is to be brought into operation, the vertical screws t, t, mount-b in the upper parts of the side frames, are turned, in order to bring down the brasses N,Inch carry the axle of that roller and slide in slots in the side frames.

I he cylinders a, b, and c, are represented hollow, and may be kept at any desired tem-co) ratUre dari “S ‘be operation of printing, by introducing steam into them; and under thetem r boxes c > c > c > hollow chambers are also made for the same purpose. The degree ofn®f' eralUre required to be given to these must depend upon the nature of the coloring] l0 ,| flnl; and of the goods operated upon. For the purpose of conducting steam to these» st°' V C5d ‘ nders and c °l° r hoses, pipes, as shown at v, v, v, are attached, which lead fromfor eam toiler. But when either of these cylinders is employed for embossing alone, orembossing and printing at the same time, and particularly for some kinds of goodsl lo l? re a higher temperature may be required, a red-hot heater is then, introduced into theIf ow cylinder in place of steam.

p r j l be cylinder b is employed as the embossing cylinder, and it is not intended toi'cedi *he fabric by that cylinder simultaneously with the operation of embossing, thed er , n 8 r °ller b, must be removed, and also the color box c, belonging to that cylin-a l>|)iv' ttle cylinders A and c, are to be employed for printing the fabric, the one

to be 1D ^ tlle color before the embossing is effected, the other after it. It is howeverin tb a f ema 'K ed ’ ‘bn! ff A, and c, are to print colors on the fabric, and b to emboss it,erg h a aase h ‘ s preferred, where the pattern would allow it. A and c, are wooden roll-of n e Vln p ‘he pattern upon their surfaces, and not metal, as the embossing cylinders must. s ‘ty he.

time "a**)* 16 P erce ‘ ved that this machine will print one, two, or three colors at the sameIV'intin” h k at llle °P erat ‘ 011 °P embossing may be performed simultaneously with thelively b” n e ‘ther of the cylinders a, b, ore,or the operation may be performed consecu-The .cylinders, either preceding or succeeding each other,color fr 0 Ua ) t ' loas °f the doctors, when required to be used for removing any superfluousany ]; nl ln , . c surface of the printing cylinder, are shown at d, d, d; those for removing1 ^vers and 1Ca ,na I r attac h itself, at e, e, e. They are kept in their bearings by weightedheal rod scr ?l VSi and receive a slight lateral movement to and fro, by means of the ver-and at it ; lc ** ‘ s connected at top to an eccentric, on the end of the axle of the roller2 °ntal rod S l0wer end to a horizontal rod mounted at the side of the frame; to this hori-bj ‘ ‘he rota,^®lr a .‘L e attached > which are connected to the respective doctors; and thus,

. Wlr en t | le ° a . ihe eccentric, the doctors are made to slide laterally,he requ; re( j ^Th 6 j S A ? B; or c > are em pl°yc4 f° r embossing only, those doctors will not‘hrougb the a i> dr p V * n = P°wer is communicated to the machine from any fir st moveraad from tliencB^.u tbe t00t hed gear, which gives rotatory motion to the cylinder b,-p, ,®MBRoiDPPTMr! e cylinders A, and c, by toothed gear shown in Jig. 370.

o| his art has been ru (Machine a brod&r, Fr.; Steckmaschine, Germ.)

■feganee by ladies °* ale ^ merely a handicraft employment, cultivated on account of itsice of a most in^ I an , . a Pew years ago M. Heilmann of Mulhause invented a ma-IIO needles as which enables a female to embroider any design with 80

ura ely and expeditiously as she formerly could do with one. A brief