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A dictionary of arts, manufactures, and mines : containing a clear exposition of their principles and practice / by Andrew Ure
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438

EMBROIDERY.

socket the extremity of the side b, d; this piece d' is made fast to d" by a bolt, but itcarries an oblong hole, and before screwing up the nut, we make the piece advance orrecede, till the fulcrum point comes exactly into the plane of the web. This condition beingfulfilled, we have merely to attach the frame to the angle f of the parallelogram, which isdone by means of the piece r v .

It is now obvious that if the embroiderer takes the handle b" in his hand and makesthe pantograph move in any direction whatever, the point f will describe a figure simi-lar to the figure described by the point c, and six times smaller, but the point/cannotmove without the frame, and whatever is upon it moving also. Thus, in the movementof the pantograph, every point of the web describes a figure equal to that described bythe point /, and consequently similar to that described by the point c, but six timessmaller; the embroidered object being produced upon the cloth in the position of thatof the pattern. It is sufficient therefore to give the embroidering operative who holdsthe handle b", a design six times greater than that to be executed by the machine, and toafford him at the same time a sure and easy means of tracing over with the point e, all theoutlines of the pattern. For this purpose he adapts to c, perpendicularly to the planeof the parallelogram, a small style terminated by a point c', and he fixes the patternupon a vertical tablet e, parallel to the plane of the stuff and the parallelogram, anddistant from it only by the length of the style c c"; this tablet is carried by the ironrod e', which is secured to a cast iron foot e', serving also for other purposes, as we shallpresently see. The frame loaded with its beams and its cloth forms a pretty heavymass, and as it must not swerve from its plane, it needs to be lightened in order that theoperative may cause the point of the pantograph to pass along the tablet without strain-ing or uncertainty in its movements. M. Heilmann has accomplished these objects in thefollowing way. A cord e attached to the side b c of the pantograph passes over a returnpulley, and carries at its extremity, a weight which may be graduated at pleasure; thisweight equipoises the pantograph, and tends slightly to raise the frame. The lowerside of the frame carries two rods H and h, each attached by two arms ft ft, a little bentto the left; both of these are engaged in the grooves of a pulley. Through this mecha-nism a pressure can be exercised upon the frame from below upwards, which may beregulated at pleasure, and without preventing the frame from moving in all directions,it hinders it from deviating from the primitive plane to which the pantograph was adjust-ed. The length of the rods h ought to be equal to the amount of the lateral movementof the frame. Two guides i i carried by two legs of cast iron, present vertical slits mwhich the lower part of the frame f' is engaged.

Disposition of the carriages .—The two carriages, which are similar, are placed the oneto the right, and the other to the left of the frame. The carriage itself is composedmerely of a long hollow cylinder of cast iron L, carrying at either end a system of twogrooved castors or pulleys l', which roll upon the horizontal rails k ; the pulleys are mount-ed upon a forked piece l', with two ends to receive the axes of the pulleys, and the pi eceY is itself bolted to a projecting ear l cast upon the cylinder.

This assemblage constitutes properly speaking the carriage, resting in a perfectlystable equilibrium upon the rails k, upon which it may be most easily moved backwardsand forwards, carrying its train of needles to be passed or drawn through the cloth.

M. Heilmann has contrived a mechanism by which the operative without budgingfrom his place may conduct the carriages, and regulate as he pleases the extent of the!course, as well as the rapidity of their movements. By turning the axes m" in the odirection or the other, the carriage may be made to approach to, or recede fromweb. . r

When one of the carriages has advanced to prick the needles into the stuff, the ois there to receive them; it lays hold of them with its pincers, pulls them throu_ _>performs its course by withdrawing to stretch the thread, and close the stitch, thegoes back with the needles to make its pricks in return. During these movementsfirst carriage remains at its post waiting the return of the second. Thus the two chamake in succession an advance and a return, but they never move together. * to

To effect these movements M. Heilmann has attached to the piece o' made tathe two uprights A c and A D of the frame, a bent lever non' n" moveable roan . ee jpoint o; the bend n' carries a toothed wheel o', and the extremity »" a toothed e

n" ■ the four wheels AT A f anrl r\' f Itaira tka coma nnmKaP rtf fppt.K tftC .

that « > s

the four wheels m m' o' and o" have the same number of teeth anddiameter; the two wheels o' and o" are fixed in reference to each other, so ■■ ■ , Jj lt .sufficient to turn the handle n to make the wheel o" revolve, and consequenty ^wheel o'; when the lever no is vertical, the wheel o' touches neither the wheel M nwheel m'; but if it be inclined to the one side or the other, it brings the wheel o .

nately into gear with the wheel m or the wheel m'. As the operative has Ins two ^

occupied, the one with the pantograph and the other with the handle of ‘ mp “f• „ s ’ tohas merely his feet for acting upon the lever n o, and as he has many ot .,L exe cutesdo, M. Heilmann has adapted before him a system of two pedals, by which ne