TEXTILE FABRICS.

1237

''Vo v a - le * )oun( H ess - Figs. 1103 and 1104 represent the draught and cording of theariel 'es of tweeled cloth wrought with five leaves of heddles. The first is the re-RHjik ? r run tweel, which, as every leaf rises in regular succession, while the rest areis # ’ ttterweaves the warp and woof only at every fifth interval, and as the successiondo a i o . rin > the cloth, when woven, presents the appearance of parallel diagonal lines, ati °. f about 45° over the whole surface. A tweel may have the regularity of itsin g^? a l fines broken by applyinj|the cording as in fig. 1104. It will be observed, thaten Ce “.figures the draught of the warp is precisely the same, and that the whole differ-the (j° two plans consists in the order of placing the spots denoting the raising cords,st being regular and successive, and the second alternate.eight®. 5- and 1106 are the regular and broken tweels which may be produced withwaves. This properly is the tweel denominated satin in the silk manufacture,

1105

1106

although many websof silk wrought withonly five leaves re-ceive that appella-tion. Some of thefinest Florentinesilks are tweeledH34S w jth sixteen leaves.C ° u l(l K S fi r °fi en tweel of eight leaves is used, the effect is much superior to what* erv al 6 Priced fiy a smaller number; for in this, two leaves are passed in every in-tend }vhich gives a much nearer resemblance to plain cloth than the others. For thishv ee j ,|Lis preferred in weaving the finest damasks. The draught of the eight-leafof ers * ri nothing from the others, excepting in the number of leaves. The differ-biafjj the cording in the broken tweel, will appear by inspecting the ciphers whichra * s ‘ n - cords, and comparing them with those of the broken tweel of fived-ig. 1107 represents the draught and cording of striped dimity of a tweel ofa ves. This is the most simple species of fanciful tweeling. It consists of ten1107 leaves, or double the number of the common tweel.

These ten leaves are moved by only five treddles, inthe same manner as a common tweel. The stripe isformed by one set of the leaves flushing the warp,and the other set, the woof. The figure representsa stripe formed by ten threads, alternately drawnthrough each of the two sets of leaves. In this case,the stripe and the intervals will be equally broad,

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vi ce 1 ls .the stripe upon one side of the cloth, will be the interval upon the other,r 1 8re a ,®^ rs “. But great variety of patterns may be introduced by drawing the warpIk' in av e I or smaller portions through either set. The tweel is of the regular kind,j co rd - e brokea by placing the cording as in fig. 1104. It will be observed thatl?’ f„ ln S-marks of the lower or front leaves are exactly the converse of the other

f at is . W “ ere a raising mark is placed upon one, it is marked for sinking in the other ;

° F *i,-° Sa .^ ; the mark is omitted; and all leaves which sink in the one, are markedin the other: thus, one thread rises in succession in the back set, and

four sink; but in the front set, four rise, and only-

one sinks. The woof, of course, passing over thefour sunk threads, and under the raised one, in thefirst instance, is flushed above; hut where the re-verse takes place, as in the second, it is flushedbelow; and thus the appearance of a stripe is formed.The analogy subsisting between striped dimity anddornock is so great, that before noticing the plan for

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it may be proper to allude to the dornock, the plan of which is represented

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It

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f ^ ’ton iur eacn sei. me rignt iuiuu act Wiucu exacuy in ms

[‘Otn t h ai b as win appear by comparing them. But as Uie dimity is a continued stripe

.. *berl„" , • i .amp in every respect with that of striped

Sity dra ;>Sfit of dornock is precisely * e ® a ^ in „. hed dles, whether three, four, or five

eaVes ^e Used 0 lhi 0 e n aih S seU ‘ TheEght hand set of treddles is also corded exactly in the

y av es. Tb^ ln ! 1 * n ° 0 er| d of 'be web, only five treddles are required to move tenei- rs ‘ n ? this dorn °ek being checker-work, the weaver must possess the power of re-ha atl V the at Pleasure. He therefore adds five more treddles, the cording of which isOh V ®S one r evarse . of the former; that is to say, the back leaves in the former case,n a Wf sunp' ra ' se d, and four sunk, have, by working with these additional treddles,*et mo fi° ur leaves raised. The front leaves are in the same manner reversed,1 a str ipe aa ,V n ” ' s complete. So long as the weaver continues to work with eithervftl be formed, as in the dimity; but when he changes his feet from one set