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Scrambles amongst the Alps : in the years 1860-69 / Edward Whymper
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APPENDIX. 409

end of 1865, and the natives confidently reckoned thattourists would flock to their side in preference to the other.It was, I believe, the late Canon Carrel of Aosta (whoalways took great interest in such matters) who first pro-posed the construction of a cabane upon the southern sideof the Matterhorn . The project was taken up with spirit,and funds for its execution were speedily providedprinci-pally by the members of the Italian Alpine Club , or by theirfriends. The indefatigable Carrel found a natural hole uponthe ledge called thecravate (13,524), and this, in courseof time, was turned, under his direction, into a respectablelittle hut. Its position is superb, and gives a view of themost magnificent character.

Whilst this work was being carried out, my friend Mr.F. Craufurd Grove consulted me respecting the ascent ofthe Matterhorn . I recommended him to ascend by thenorthern route, and to place himself in the hands of Jean-Antoine Carrel . Mr. Grove found, however, that Carreldistinctly preferred the southern side, and they ascendedaccordingly by the Breuil route. Mr. Grove has been goodenough to supply the following account of his expedition.He carries on my description of the southern route fromthe highest point I attained on that side (a little below thecravate) to the summit, and thus renders complete mydescriptions of the two sides.

In August 1867 I ascended the Matterhorn from Breuil ,taking as guides three mountaineers of the ValtournancheJ.-A. Carrel, J. Bich, and S. MeynetCarrel beingthe leader. At that time the Matterhorn had not beenscaled since the famous expedition of the Italian guidesmentioned above.

Our route was identical with that which they followedin their descent when, as will be seen, they struck out onone part of the mountain a different line from that whichthey had taken in ascending. After gaining the Col duLion, we climbed the south-western or Breuil ar(U by theroute which has been described in these pages, passing thenight at the then unfinished hut constructed by the ItalianAlpine Club on thecravate. Starting from the hut at