14

VAL LA VIZZAll A.

we approach them seem to sink before us. The preci-pices of the lower valley give place to smooth lawns sha-dowed by spreading beeches. The gentle hillsides whichsurround the headwaters of the Maggia rise up into lowrounded crests, and the scenery is only redeemed frommonotony by the rich variety of the foliage and verdure.

The highest village, Fusio, is a cluster of housescrowded round a church* and clinging to a steepslope, at the foot of which flows the blue torrent in adeep bridge-spanned cleft. The inn ten years ago wasof the most primitive kind. It was kept by a worthycouple whose shrewd puckered faces recalled some por-trait of an early German master. But thej r were aslively as they were old, and no emergency, not even thearrival of three hungry Englishmen, found them with-out resources. On the occasion in question they boldlyproceeded to sacrilege on our behalf. The villageknew that the cure was going to have a fowl for dinner;the good dame hurried off to the parsonage, and likeDavid robbed the tables of the priest.

The old inn and its owners are no longer to befound. A new hotel has lately been built, and is saidto be frequented by Italians seeking refuge from thesummer heat of the Lombard plain.

Thus far we have simply followed the main valley.Of its numerous tributary glens, Val Bavona and Yaldi Prato are the most likely to be visited by moun-taineers, for they lead to the two highest summitsof the neighbouring ranges, the Basodine and PizCampo Tencca. But their beauties ought to attractothers besides those who may wish to use them asmeans to a higher end—in a literal and Alpine Club *sense.