24 PIZ CAMPO TENCCA.

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ing cloud-wreaths we see the wide landscape glitteringwith fresh rain, and the new snows shining oppositethe setting sun—a scene the full splendour of which canscarcely be recalled even in the memory of those whohave often witnessed it.

In the present instance two hours would, we knew,put us well on the other side of the mountain, whereour friends were waiting for us; and, though neithermy guide nor I knew anything of the ground, we couldtrust to General Dufour ’s map. The Swiss travellerhas here an enormous advantage over his brother inGreat Britain. If anyone is rash enough, in Wales forinstance, to put his faith in the English Ordnance Survey , and to seek a passage where light shadingseems to indicate an absence of precipices, he will soonfind himself brought to a standstill. The present stateof our national maps is far from creditable to ourGovernment and our engineers.

For the moment all we had to do was to stick to theridge, which must and did lead us straight to the stone-man, in such weather the only indication of the summit.A short halt for the chance of a break in the clouds andto settle clearly our route on the map, and we startedon the unknown descent. The first point was to strikethe gap south of the peak. A few minutes sufficed forthis, then we had only to descend with a constantbearing to the left. The ground was steep and rough,and there were cliffs in every direction, but we managedto avoid them. In half an hour we had reached thelower skirts of the cloud, and passed out of gentle snowinto pitiless rain.

Cattle tracks now led us past the highest huts to acabin from the chimney of which smoke issued. The