96

THE ITtATIGAU.

At the.bridge of Klosters, in 1866, my companiondeserted me for England. Frantjois and I wanted toturn south again to the Engadine , and we determinedto take a glance by the way at the retiring beauties ofthe Silvretta Ferner. This considerable glacier group,scarcely known to Englishmen, runs parallel to theLower Engadine , separating that valley from the Tyro-lese Montafun and Paznaun Thai, and abutting at itswestern end against the head of the Pratigau. TheSwiss Alpine Club made it one year the scene of theirsummer excursion, and have conquered most of itspeaks and passes. At their instigation a hut has beenbuilt four and a half hours from Klosters, close to theglaciers, and there we intended to pass the night.

A new inn and pension was just opened on the lefthank of the stream, and I did not long remain withoutsociety in the salon. First appeared an invalid fromthe Baths of Serneus, who speedily broke down myGerman by preferring to talk of war-politics ratherthan of mountains. Next came a gentleman from Chur hound for Davos , who puzzled me still more by launch-ing into what he gave me to understand was English .Last of all the local guide turned up, armed with testi-monials from the Swiss Alpine Club , and aghast at thenotion of any traveller crossing the glaciers without hisaid. Finding the native willing to accompany us onvery moderate terms, and being one too few for a glacierpass, we readily agreed to take him.

Above Klosters the path is level for some distance,and leads through thick woods rich in ferns and flowers.After passing the mouth of the Vereina Thai the forestgrew thinner and we reached the chalets of the SardascaAlp, standing at the true head of the valley on a level