CHARACTER OF THE ABRUZZI.

77

Cori. In the Roman states, as I have already remarked,every thing improves, in some degree, as we remove fromthe centre of pestilent priestly misgovernment. BothSmirke and myself had armed ourselves with guns andpistols, and knives and cartridges, but we were greatlypleased to find that our precautions had been entirely super-fluous. It is only in the immediate vicinity of the seats ofvile misrule, and in the main slimy tracks of their official,predatory, and meddling myrmidons, that society is degraded,industry destroyed, and robbery a necessity, or a lex ta-lionis. The urbanity and dignified natural politeness of thefarmers and peasantry of the country we passed through,and of the Abruzzi generally, is quite edifying. The menare usually armed, but from ancient usage rather thannecessity. There being no game laws, each man oftenacquires a comfortable addition to the family fare, throughthe use of his gun, which has, most likely, never beenlevelled at a human being, save some felon sbirro of thepope or Bourbon, or, perhaps, some robber from theplain, who has ventured to excurse from Fondi or Ter-racina.

My gun, also, frequently provided us a dish of larks, orquails, or starlings, but these, as well as eggs and poultry,were always to be had, at very reasonable prices, at everyvillage on the route.

Whilst on our way along some elevated mountain path,we frequently could count around fifteen or twenty townsand villages, all presenting the most exquisitely picturesqueand pleasing objects it is possible to conceive. Limpidstreams meandering through the vallies richly cultivated andstudded with villages, flocks, and herds. The optical illu-sion which.accompanies these scenes exemplifies the greatpurity and clearness of the atmosphere. Villages whichappeared so close beneath our feet, as though we could